Checkpoint Checklist: Paris on a Budget

Ah Paris... the City of Love, the City of Light, the City of I Can't Afford Anything Nice. When money is tight, you might need to rethink your idea of a romantic getaway. Forget about champagne or sharing a candlelit dinner with a view of the Eiffel Tower. But don't be discouraged! Here are some tips on how to enjoy this city without breaking the bank.

The Eiffel Tower, photo taken from the Palais du Chaillot

CHEAPEST ACCOMODATIONS: After thoroughly searching the internet, Airbnb seems to offer the best and cheapest places to stay. If you're a single traveler, a bed in a hostel can still be cost efficient and more fun. But for couples who want a little bit more privacy, try renting a private room in the apartment or house of a local! We met some great hosts who provided us with a cozy bedroom and advice not found in tour books or online. The best part is you generally have access to a full kitchen and washer/dryer.

• Price Range:
• Hostels - €15-30/night per person. Prices fluctuate based on demand; Friday/Saturday nights cost more
• "Motels" - €45-60; I give them low ratings in cleanliness and comfort. Paris is the bed bug capital.
• Airbnb - €30-70; The website offers many filter options, lots of pictures, and reviews for each host so you can find exactly what you want, whether it be a pull-out sofa bed or an entire loft apartment to yourself.

Sacré Cœur, Montmartre, 18th Arrondissement

CREDIT CARD: I prefer using my credit card because I don't get charged a foreign transaction or conversion fee, but some places have a minimum purchase limit and many local shops don't accept American credit cards (explanation below).

• MUST READ! Most automated machines in Paris do not accept swipe credit cards! We encountered problems while trying to purchase tickets for the Metro (the subway). We were also really disappointed when we tried to rent the city bicycles and the machine couldn't process any of our cards. In France and much of the world, they have chip-and-PIN cards that read differently than the magnetic strip cards we are issued in the States. However, many restaurants and stores have dual card readers.   

CASH MONEY: Always carry cash in the currency of the country you are visiting. Smaller denominations are easier to handle and the vendors will hate you (tourists) less.

• Most ATMs don't charge any service fees but your bank most likely will.



The Seine River

FOOD: Not much fine dining for this couple! The cost of a regular dinner at most restaurants/bistros is between €12-16 per person. The cost of more refined dining is double or triple that. Our little taste buds will never experience the exquisite cuisine that Paris is known for. Instead, this is what our diet consisted of:

• Crepes - the little huts along the streets of Paris offer sweet and savory crepes for 3-6 Euros
• Ethnic Food - Paris is quite a diverse city. We found many kebab shops, fast food Chinese, Indian, and African. Warning! If you walk into a fast food place and you see a microwave behind the counter, run away! Unless you're hungry and desperate.
• The Locals - No, we did not convert to cannibalism. Ask the people who know the ins and outs of the city best. Our hosts took us to a no-frills African restaurant where we sat in a dark basement and ate an incredibly tasty authentic Ivory Coast meal... with our hands.
• Boulangerie Patisserie - On every block in Paris you can find these mom and pop bakeries that offer low-cost sandwiches, bread products, and pastries all baked fresh daily. €3.50 for a thin "foot-long" simple sub.

GETTING TIPSY: A glass of wine can be cheaper than a bottle of Coke. For some reason soda/pop is really expensive in Paris. So grab a seat in the patio of the nearest bistro and order a glass (€3-€4). The best advice from everyone and their mother is to grab a six-pack at a supermarket and stroll on down to the Seine River at night.

Locals and tourists hanging out along the river

Gettin' all spry on some Grolsch; Notre Dame Cathedral in the background

SEEING THE SIGHTS: So many incredible monuments, so little time. Paris is fun to explore on foot and the Metro weaves through every part of the city and beyond.

• A single ride fare on the Metro costs €1.70. An unlimited day pass is roughly €8.
• 704: number of steps to the second level of the Eiffel Tower. Climbing the stairs is a cheaper and "healthier" option than taking elevator. €5 stairs to second floor/€9 elevator to second floor/€15 elevator to the top. The wait is shorter too.

The right way to climb up the Eiffel Tower

The wrong way to climb up the Eiffel Tower

•  Palace of Versailles - This amazing, decadent palace costs a decent €15, which includes an audio guide. However, the majestic gardens and parks are FREE! Take a whole day to wander the grounds and nap in the grass. It does take about an hour and a half by train to get there from the city centre.

• 

  The Gardens behind the Palace

  

  A moment of reflection by the Grand Canal

  Seven days in Paris doesn't make us experts, but hopefully these tips will make your first or next visit more enjoyable and help to keep your hard earned money in your pocket.

East view from the Eiffel Tower  

Floating Through Edinburgh

When posing for travel photos, we automatically put on a practiced smile and rest our hands on our hips like celebrities or around the belly of our mate. Soon the pictures look all the same; just drop in a different background. In Edinburgh, we changed it up a bit.

 

Scottish Parliament Building

See what we did there? Not really? Look at this one.

Arthur's Seat

This next one is my favorite...

National Monument

After taking the above photo, the image instantly reminded me of Rene Magritte's paintings of floating men. The men, dressed in standard clothing, stand in a placid posture as if waiting for a bus. They are placed within a mundane background. The normality of it all almost overrides the ridiculous fact that they are floating in mid air.
 

 

Here we tried it from a different angle.

Stirling Castle

Stairway to Heaven?

Stirling Castle Chapel

Mike has been a trooper during these photo shoots. We'll be setting up a fund for new knees and ankles when we come home. Stay tuned for "Floating Through London."

Morning-After Update...

Greetings from the morning after St. Patrick's Day! Since it was such an early start to the festivities yesterday morning, Vicky and I called it quits about... 12 hours and one incident with the police into our day of debauchery.

It was an amazing day and as I sit here with not much more than a slight headache at 7 am, I figured I'd update you all a bit while I checked how my Chicago sports teams are faring.

Starting with the Dublin St. Patrick's Festival Parade and rounding out with plenty of Guinness and Bulmer's (Magner's) cider, bad (amazing) food decisions and good company. The only hiccup in our trek was a run in with an overwhelmed police officer who went into our bag and took away our unopened beer. That was a bit of a buzz kill, but neither that nor the intermittent drizzle didn't dampen our spirits.

To close out the night, we took a spin on the most amazing carnival ride either of us had ever seen. Carny Culture lives on in Dublin. So, Happy Day After St. Patrick's Day, everyone! Time for some way-too-greasy breakfast.

Seeing Green...

A quick, cheery hello from Dublin! Sitting here in the pub attached to our hotel, The Bram Stoker, and the cheerful smiles of the staff don't make the WiFi any stronger, so this will be brief with just cell phone pictures (for now)...

A pop-up food market at Christchurch Cathedral.

Once again, Vicky and I seem to be acted like a magnet for sunny, unseasonably pleasant weather as we cut our swath across the British Isles. Despite a long, eventful and uncomfortable trip across England from London to Manchester to Hollyhead to Dublin via bus and ferry, we managed to make it into town with smiles on our faces and maps in our hands, ready for more adventures. It being St. Patrick's Day weekend in Dublin, there is no shortage of places to go and things to see.

As I write this, it is the eve of St. Patty's day, but we have already walked around the city many times over, been part of a city-wide treasure hunt, eaten another 'full something' breakfast (this time, Irish), been to the largest park in all of Europe, watched music played in the streets on stages big and small, drank Guinness from the source, and even seen a great movie floating on the Liffey River...

WHEW. IT HAS BEEN THREE DAYS.

Not bad for a placeholder, cellphone picture, huh?

That being said, as great as Dublin is, there is so much more Ireland has to offer than just the city center itself. Unfortunately, our time here in this great country is limited (on this trip, anyway), so great sights like Belfast and the Giant's Causeway will just have to live on without us for a while. Considering the many millennia of magic and history under her belt, I think Ireland will get along just fine. Us on the other hand... We'll see. Back to what we could see...

Dublin, more so than any other city thus far, has welcomed us with open arms and did it with a goofy grin and wonderfully quirky sense of humor. From our boisterous bartender/bellhop, Barry at the Bram Stoker to the wonderful gentleman we met outside Phoenix Park who showed us the way to not only a toilet, but 'one of the best pubs in Dublin,' there is something to be said for a population that get the most out of life not just through finding joy, but by sharing it with others. It could be friends, family, the people attached to the two closest barstools, or even weary travelers, the people of Dublin thus far have been nothing but helpful, kind and, above all, appreciative for our presence. The least I could do is raise a glass of Guinness in their honor.

The next to least I could do, is do it over and over and over again. Which is exactly what we plan to do tomorrow. Thank you, Dublin.

Sláinte!

The Land of Rainbows and Unicorns

Once Upon A Time...

Two young lovers set out on a quest to chase the sun and seek adventure through the Highlands. Passing through grasslands and rolling hills, enduring rain storms followed by rainbows, Michael and Victoria come across a majestic stone castle atop a mass of rocks.

They make their way to the entrance to seek rest and food. A friendly guard greets them and demands a toll before entering the castle. Michael and Victoria wave their enchanted card of plastic at the guard and he welcomes them in through the great gate.

 

As the young couple strolls through the castle grounds, a strange force of nature closes in from the North. The people look on in the distance as the ominous clouds race towards them. Before anyone can seek cover, the skies open up and let out fierce winds and rain.

Michael and Victoria head for shelter but the storm passes in the blink of an eye and the sun shines bright and warm again. They continue to cross the grounds to visit the Great Hall but then another storm ambushes them, this time turning to sleet and snow and hail.

In order to walk the halls of the palace, guests must dress in the finest garments. Victoria exchanges her common garb for a regal blue gown fit for a queen!

Michael observes that a knight in shining armor is eyeing his Victoria, so he warns the knight, "The feet of this Lady have already been swept off. Make haste and get thee gone."

Entering the Throne Room, the couple is presented with a rare treat: the castle's prize unicorns. These magnificent creatures are held in the highest regard by all the great kings and their people. "I never in my life thought I would see a unicorn," exclaimed Victoria. "And now there are several before me!"

The shadows on the ground grow longer and the sun is now descending in the sky. Michael realizes they have lingered too long in the castle.

The two continue their journey onward and look back one last time at the castle in the sky.

Knowing they must make it to Loch Lomond before darkness falls, the lovers race through the hills and glens. However, the beauty of the Trossachs and the gentle flow of the creeks lure them to a halt. A man in black emerges from the trees, wielding the skull and antlers of a wild beast. Fearlessly, Victoria greets him with warm hello. "Good afternoon sir, we are passing through on our way to Loch Lomond," she says. The man in black nods and smiles, "ah yes, there is an inn near the loch where you must go." With that, he turns and disappears over the horizon.



Mesmerized by the land, Michael and Victoria linger along the path surrounded by waterfalls, rivers, and giants.

The sun is about to fall behind the mountains when the two weary travelers finally arrive at the legendary loch. They stand over the water and watch as the last rays kiss the land good night.

Remembering the words of the man in black, Michael and Victoria set out once more to find the inn. There, along the road, the glowing lights through the windows of the inn promise warmth and welcome.

Stepping inside, the couple is startled by the beasts and mythical creatures that surround the room. Luckily, they have all been frozen by some magical enchantment.

Even the rarest creature of them all was on display at the inn: the elusive Haggis.

After filling their stomachs with steak and ale pie with mash, emptying their mugs of beer, and warming their hearts with the memories of the day, Michael and Victoria treated themselves to a dessert so decadent and so rich, they thought it was a dream. That dream is sticky toffee pudding with ice cream.



And so this fairytale chapter ends as the two travelers in love return to reality. The reality of the cold, hard chairs of the Edinburgh Airport lobby. Yes, we slept at the airport to save money.

The End

Here in Edinburgh...

“This is a city of shifting light, of changing skies, of sudden vistas. A city so beautiful it breaks the heart again and again.”

Alexander McCall Smith

They're from Glasgow, but still. This is a good song to listen to by a Scottish band while reading. 

Edinburgh is a place on this planet that seems to exist outside the normal flow of time. Though it has it's share of Kentucky Fried Chickens, Starbucks and even once held a Microsoft Corporate Office, it blends these reminders of the modern era seamlessly into it's beautiful foundation of weathered and moss-covered structures. Some of which have stood for nearly one thousand years. At the top of the Royal Mile sits Edinburgh Castle with it's many turrets and out-of-use moats. This structure seemingly has no place in a metropolitan area of today, and yet, there it stands both set apart in historical magnificence and blending in with the overall timbre of the city.

Parthenon? No. Unfinished awesomeness.

You may have noticed that I am a bit of a fan of architecture. It's shouldn't be surprising to you then, that every place we stop on this adventure, I am in awe of. Growing up in Chicago (home of some of the best cityscape architecture, covering a plethora of styles and eras), I was raised on the importance of being proud of the structures that raised well above my head as if in defiance of the skies. To see some of the monuments and testaments to human ingenuity in person solidifies my opinion of the best humanity has to offer. We can get shit done.

The Royal Mile from atop Nelson's Monument.

Edinburgh's Royal Mile at night.

We arrived in Edinburgh early on Monday after getting up at 3:30 a.m. and taking an hour long taxi ride to the smaller London-area airport (Gatwick). Though the plane ride was only an hour and a half, it was an exhausting trip and by the time we got to our hostel around 9:30, all we wanted to do was sleep. Again.

Thankfully, the check in time wasn't until 2 p.m., so we were forced to find something to do until that time. With so much beauty and not much energy to enjoy it, we found a nearby park and settled into a park bench. Princes Street Gardens is a former pond, drained and turned into parkland. Edinburgh is one of the most serene and peaceful major cities you will ever encounter. Perhaps it's the constant rain or the unending reminders of ancestry, but there seems to be an overall respect for the serenity of nature and the joys that come with it. As all my worries and pains began to be swept away with the gentle Forth breeze, my consciousness also began to be wicked away, rolling down the gentle, evergreen grass hill in front of me. Sun is rare in Edinburgh (so I'm told), so for us to fall asleep on a sun-drenched park bench as the most corpulent, white clouds you've ever seen raced across, low in the sky, felt like a tiny slice of heaven.

Vicky sketches one of her mind's many hilarious images in Princes Street Gardens.

Being the most walkable urban area I've ever witnessed is another striking feature of Edinburgh. In the four days we've been here so far, we have walked countless miles and have been astonished that we continue to run into something incredible. Whether it be a new pub, narrow, winding staircase/alleyway (they call them 'closes' here) between buildings, delectable eatery or simply a free walking tour of the city to join, Edinburgh never ceases to entertain, educate or amaze. This is, simply put, the most inspiring city I've ever had the pleasure of setting foot in.

Looking down the original inspiration for Diagon Alley from the Harry Potter series.

Edinburgh is not just a grand, inviting cityscape, either. Oh sure, it's got a great vibe during the day and a wonderful nightlife, but if you can get yourself to one of the many high roads here, you'll see that it is surrounded (closely, might I add) by natural beauty. Arthur's Seat. The Firth of Forth. Calton's Hill. Between the otherworldly cloud cover, the jovial stories of the locals and the rhythmic breathing of the city, being here is being witness to a constant glorious dance between tangible history and future inspiration.

Vicky basks in the magnificence that is Greyfriat's Kirkyard (cemetary).