Tuesday, February 16, 2016

As We Prepare to Leave Thailand...

Three weeks have passed since we arrived in the lush, sprawling landscape that is Thailand. Each individual experience thus far has, like all our travel experiences, so enriched our lives that it would be nearly impossible to do them all justice in one blog post.

Vicky gazes over the Bangkok landscape.
From playing with urban monkeys in Lopburi to eating countless varieties of cheap, fragrant street food. From enjoying the comfort of a taxi ride to relishing the experience of a modern mass transit system like the Metropolitan Rapid Transit (MRT) or Bangkok Rapid Transit (BTS). From the beaches of Koh Semet to the temples of Ayutthaya, Thailand has so much to offer anyone with at least one working sense. That being said, as we prepare to depart this unique locale, let's talk about our chosen base of operations: Bangkok.

First things first. Thailand is hot. Thailand is extremely hot. Be prepared for heat when traveling here.
Not sure liquification is covered by our Traveler's Insurance.
Plenty of sunscreen and bug repellent. The city is covered in concrete and that seems to make the heat even more intense. As you traverse this urban jungle and make your way through the thick forest of telephone poles and concrete stanchions, be sure to enjoy the hospitality of the locals. The Thai are truly a friendly people. A couple of choice learned phrases like, 'Hello,' (sa-wat-dee) 'How much?' (tao lai) 'Excuse me,' (tona kop) 'Thank you,' (kop kun) go a long way to ingratiating yourself to the local population (of all nationalities). Forgive anyone trying to push merchandise on you because for every one of them, there are two people who are going to cook, prepare and plate a meal for you for a little over $1USD, and do it with an honest smile.

Children playing near Wat Pho.
 Bangkok is not the easiest place to get around, especially if you choose to go without a cell phone data plan (as we do when we travel). However, you have a veritable buffet of transit options when it comes to getting around Bangkok and the surrounding areas. First, for those of you sans data, I would recommend an offline, GPS-based mobile app like MAPS.ME for your location needs. Other than that, old school is always the best school. Physical, detailed maps and planning routes ahead of time. This is not the death of spontaneity, just being sure of your steps until getting acclimated with a given area. Not a day goes by where Vicky whips out a map and looks at me with crazy eyes and says, 'IT'S LIKE WE'RE ON THE AMAZING RACE.' Whether it be by rail, taxi, tuktuk, bus or walking, Bangkok has a sight to see on every corner (usually next to a 7-11). The rail system is not terribly widespread, but very efficient and cheap. Taxi service varies depending on location and time of day. Don't feel bad about sending one away if they deny your request to use the meter. They will try to quote a price that usually is in their best interest in that event. Haggle with them if you don't want to go to the trouble of finding a metered taxi. A good cabbie always deserves a tip, but since it isn't 100% customary to tip, just round up to the easiest 20฿ (Thai Baht).

Watch out for the wobbly sidewalks.
Walking the streets and sidewalks of Bangkok require strong ankles and good peripherals. Don't have your head buried in your phone unless you want to be stunned by a motorcyclist whizzing by, mere inches away. Yes. A motorcyclist. Traffic here is... dense. To alleviate some of the congestion (or just get around it), people will ride on the sidewalks, weaving in and out of pedestrian traffic and harrowingly navigating the makeshift array of cables, poles, and hawking stands. Because of this use, the sidewalks are uneven at best, broken obstacle courses at worst. Be. Aware.

While on the subject of navigating the streets, let's talk about why we're all really here. FOOD. Bangkok has us up to our ears in delicious street foods. Some familiar, some not so much. Rice, noodles, wantons, fried dough, meats on sticks, whole fishes, pork soups, sticky rice, curries...

I seem to have forgotten my point.
Normally, we try to go light on our eating throughout the day and eat out once in a great while. This is to save money and to keep us light on our feet to traverse each city with energy and agility. However, here it is actually more expensive to buy groceries and cook yourself than it is to buy a meal for two at least twice a day. It's horrifying and amazing at the same time. The abundance of choices and aromas is intoxicating and stupefying. Just snack throughout the day and sit down to a takeaway meal in the evening.

7-11 is a resource that should be taken advantage of. When you get money from an ATM, you get it in 1,000฿ increments. Many vendors and taxis simply don't carry enough cash to change that out, so every now and then, go get a 14฿ (about 40¢) Thai milk tea and use those large bills to get ALL THE SMALL CHANGE. 7-11 has cash for days.

7-11. Resource.
Like any major metropolitan area, the traffic is horrid, the air is almost unbreathable, and to find any semblance of serenity, you need to travel at least an hour away from the city's borders. However, there is an experience in every step, an event near every bus stop, and just enough reminders of home to make Bangkok an ideal place to dip your toes in the Southeast Asian waters comfortably. It is an enormous pond teeming with life. From the vibrant colors and angular lines of the architecture above to the stratified layers of food, grime, and drinks spilled from clinked glasses of the streets below, Bangkok is a city unlike any other. Nearly familiar on its surface, yet unique in its heart. We'll see you on the streets, so sawatdee for now.
Until next time...

Monday, February 1, 2016

Crossing the Date Line...

Well, Checkpointers, we're here! Sawadikap, from Thailand! We made it across the Pacific to Japan and onto Bangkok. After an 11 hour flight to Tokyo, meeting up with our friend Ashley from Chicago, and a 6 hour flight to Bangkok, we were understandably wiped and confused.

"...AH-WHAT. NOTHING... Sorry?"
Sufficed to say, we were ready to jump in a taxi and let them do all the work.

However, that was not to be. This is not Europe and English is not the near-guarantee we got used to there. In Europe, we were able to get away with attempting the local languages and our politeness would be recognized and often appreciated. Here, you had better be ready with your dictionaries (we weren't) because not many of the locals speak English. Attempting to flag down a cab that would take us to our address (printed in English, of course) was not easy. Even with our friend's phone navigating us, it was still an adventure.

Once we found our accommodations for the night, our brains had been so forcibly woken up to deal with the transportation issue that I had a little trouble getting to sleep.

The body was willing, however the mind...
Eventually, sleep was achieved and rest was found. Let's discuss our first couple of days in Thailand in one of the only efficient means I know how; photographs.

Bangkok.
What.
We got to Bangkok under cover of night. The streets we walked were quiet and devoid of commerce. First impressions of the city were hard to come by as it would take a while to mine through the stratified layers of character and grime alike. Upon sunrise, the vendors begin to peel back their shutters and the nostalgic aromas of cooking oil and charred meat overpower the smells of a hot, humid urban center. It's at this moment that Bangkok achieves the apex of it's charm.
Taken in that rare, fleeting moment in Khao San when traffic is light.
The city's countless motorbikes weave expertly in and out of traffic or simply skip traffic altogether and hop onto the sidewalk and hope pedestrians are paying attention. Cables carrying electricity, phone lines, or just drying laundry wrap around every surface like a strangler fig. The motto of this burgeoning town seems to be, 'Just keep building.' Every surface is built upon. If a structure is still standing, build on it or add to it. Pop up vendors who have found themselves a spot to call their own improvise with whatever building materials are at their disposal. Need a place to eat our delicious noodles? There is some sheet metal attached to a fence, a telephone pole and the side of a 7-11. Guess what?

...

It's perfect.
Just eating food I'll never tire of at a price I'll never believe we got away with.
"Sà-wàt-dee kráp?" "Tâo rài?" "Kòp kun!" As is the case anywhere, use as much of the local language as possible. The locals appreciate it and it's hell of fun. Having spent only a few days here thus far, I'm sure my appreciation and admiration of Bangkok will only continue to grow. The first impressions were meant as a way to safely jump into the coursing river that is Bangkok. Once acclimated, we'll open ourselves to the historic temples and landmarks that are nestled in this ancient and ever-adapting city. Until then, I can only say we've waded out and the water seems inviting...
Wires, girders, and signage. Oh, my.