The 'Pearl of Asia'

Cambodia is a land filled to the brim with history and heartbreak. From the terrible treatment of the people who actually put the temple complexes at Angkor Wat together a millennia ago to the brutal atrocities committed by the savage Khmer Rouge, the Khmer people have proven time and again to be resilient and more forgiving than this world deserves. This is a trait that becomes blindingly apparent as soon as you hop into a tuk tuk and speak to the driver for even the briefest moment. However, we're not here to give a history lesson. We're here to tell you about our experiences in the phenomenal city that is Phnom Penh.

A typical Phnom Penh street.

Vicky enjoys a sugar cane juice from a local cart vendor. SO GOOD.

Immediately upon arrival, the openness and friendliness of the people is apparent. 'Sues-day' and 'Akun' ('hello' and 'thank you' respectively) will get you a smile as wide as the Mekong itself. First thing you'll notice is that, like the rest of Southeast Asia, it's blisteringly hot. Being a cold weather person, myself, this entire trip has been like a three month back-and-forth trip between the sauna and steam room. Phnom Penh is similar to Bangkok in terms of humidity, but even hotter. Be prepared. We recommend at least one cooling towel (a contraption that is made cold by any temperature water and a snapping motion). It will turn an unbearable heat into... an almost bearable heat.

A meal for two and some drinks for about $2? YES.

If you can stay cool and hydrated, definitely rent a bicycle and traverse the crowded city streets with the locals. Bike up the riverfront, get some delicious, cheap noodles at one of the countless stands or pavement cafes, and grab a life-savingly refreshing sugar cane juice from a cart on the street (any street). Don't let the high price numbers scare you. It's 4,000 Cambodian Riels to $1 USD (they take mainly USD, anyway). If you choose to take a pass on the overpriced European food and stick to local fare, it's actually rare you'll find a meal that costs 5,000 of something. Once your belly is full, move on to your mind. Educate yourself on the history of the nation and some of what the local population has had to endure. Visit the S-21 Prison Museum and the Killing Fields.

The current view from inside S-21.

Bou Meng, one of the few survivors of S-21, poses with Vicky.

Inside the S-21 Prison (a high school converted into a prison camp by the Khmer Rouge), you will not see the sterile, disconnected pieces of history you often see in museums. The intent here was to give the viewer an uncomfortably visceral feel. A feeling that drives the information home much more severely than any behind-the-glass diorama and paragraph of backstory can ever provide. Decaying bed frames (used for torture and electrocution) remain in much the same position they were in 40 years ago when Pol Pot's followers were committing some of the most heinous acts conceivable. Despite the survival rate being nearly zero, there were survivors. People who embody the resilient spirit of the Cambodian people like they were mascots for an entire nation. Upon exiting the museum, you can chat with Bou Meng, a survivor of S-21. He will greet you with a smile, he will laugh with you, and show you that no matter what you are put through, you can survive.

This gorgeous modern structure houses
thousands of skulls from victims of the
Killing Fields.

To further ingrain this learning experience in your mind, take a trip just outside the city to the famous Killing Fields. Despite its dire name, it is an incredibly peaceful place. Take a leisurely, reflective stroll through the grounds and never forget the thousands of people who 'disappeared' here. Though these atrocities seem like something that happened in a time and place we cannot comprehend, we must realize that they happened only a few short decades ago in a world landscape not dissimilar to our own. We must, as a species, learn from our mistakes and places like these help us do exactly that.

On the more upbeat side of history is the French colonial influence in the architecture in Phnom Penh. One of the most recognizable areas for this is the Central Market. A huge building with a central area for jewels and four anti-chambers for clothing, electronics, foods, spices, etc... Dodge and weave around locals and tourists alike, haggle a little for a nice, comfy t-shirt, then head outside and get a cheap sandwich. Enjoy the thrum of the bustling shopping beast and come away with some gems of your own.

Shopping? Why not?

My 'Not-A-Good-Idea' face.

Phnom Penh is not just a relic to gaze at longingly. It is a modern city on the rise. Cambodia may be behind many other cities in SE Asia, but by no means is it left behind. Currently, there is a development project of massive scale on the riverfront. At the time of our 100 days in SE Asia, it is just a few nice bars and restaurants with a nice (albeit incomplete) view of the Mekong River, but in a short time, it will be an entire man-made island cityscape. Skyscrapers, resorts, golf courses, shopping and theater districts, etc... In the meantime, enjoy getting about 11 beers for around $10.

It may not be the 'Pearl of Asia' any longer, but it certainly has more than enough charm to justify a visit. With a base architecture of traditional Khmer and colonial French influence and a population as inviting as the aromas from the plethora of street foods, Phnom Penh is a bustling city that has a little bit of everything. If you can stand the heat and are looking for a friendly, laid back city to get lost in for a while, check it out.

Phnom Penh and the Mekong river await your arrival.