Showing posts with label travel tips. Show all posts
Showing posts with label travel tips. Show all posts

Monday, March 28, 2016

Choosing the Best Camera for your Travels

Travel photography is the joy of making a unique moment last longer than our fragile memory is capable. It is the forethought of enjoying these tangible memories years down the line. Perhaps we just crave an 'I-remember-that!' while reminiscing about our many travels. Whatever the case, we ENJOY the process of capturing images, and we relish in the enjoyment it brings to others (all twelve of them). Personally, when I visit blogs or read books about travel and see amazing photographs of exotic locations (or familiar ones that look completely foreign to me), the underlying thought to my enjoyment is, 'How did they capture this,' or 'What gear did they use to make this moment stand out?'

This got me thinking that there are probably others out there wondering what travelers like us bring on our trips with the intent of capturing the best possible photos. Always keep in mind that it isn't just a relationship between the landscape, the photographer, and the equipment. The post production work (any photo editing software like Photoshop, Lightroom, etc...) plays a huge role in determining the final image. Whether you wondered about any of this or not, here is some insights into our gear and process!

The Cameras

Currently, Checkpoint Chanislawski is rocking the Canon 6D. Complete with a gorgeous, full-frame 35mm sensor and kit 24-105 USM Canon lens, this DSLR package set us back about $2,000 (less than half the price of it's more popular, older sibling, the 5D mk iii).

The Canon 6D with 24-105mm USM lens
This camera/lens combination not only takes stunning, rich photos, but also can take 1080p cinema-quality video. With built in GPS and WiFi connectivity, excellent battery life, and two custom shooting profiles, this camera can do so much for amateurs and professionals alike.

Mike on the 6D, taken with the GoPro Hero 4 Black.
On the video side, we currently use the GoPro Hero 4 Black. For consumer action cameras, this is, admittedly, pricey. For $500 a pop (for the camera/battery/case alone), you seemingly are paying a lot for very little. However, this versatile little camera not only can take a beating, but can capture some very spectacular images in a very travel-friendly, compact size. The similarly-impressive GoPro Hero 3 is a fraction of the cost, but loses points due to its resolution and user-friendliness (or lack thereof). Not only has GoPro vastly increased the WiFi responsiveness (a great help to remotely control or check footage from a tablet/smartphone), but it has somewhat future-proofed itself by being able to shoot at 4K resolution. Again, for an action camera you can operate with two fingers, this is pretty incredible. The still images you can capture aren't much to write home about, but do allow the shooter to create some fun fish-eye photos in well-lit exteriors. When combined with a selfie stick, we are able to do our daily video diary entries with clear audio and video alike.
Including an out-of-the-box water-proof case helps!
Alternatives

You may be thinking, 'Traveling is expensive enough! Why would I throw an extra $3,000 for this?!' Dropping any significant amount of money is going to cause some fear/remorse in any sane, practical mind. I can't spend $10 dollars without spiraling into a temporary depression. I get it. However, the amount you spend is completely dependent on what you want to achieve in your photos. It is true that the more you spend, the better the quality of your photos will be generally. However, there are always alternatives. Can you get great images for under $1,000?

Yes. You can.
Memories... like the corner of my mind...
If Spock says it's possible, then it must be true. But, seriously, yes, you can. Before plunging into a better camera package, Checkpoint Chanislawski and Yours Truly toted the Canon Rebel xsi, an ancient crop sensor DSLR (more on that in a minute), around for over half a decade. With that camera and two relatively cheap zoom lenses, we were able to capture some stunning images. The Rebel series is still being made today and is a great, lower-cost alternative to serious amateur photographers. If it takes such great pictures, why is it a lower price, you ask? Well, that's where the crop sensor comes in. Aside from obvious technical specs (BORING), the sensor is what actually captures your images digitally. The Rebel series gives you a smaller sensor on which to capture information. This gives a slight zoom-in effect to your photos that you don't get on a full sensor camera.

Mountains of Austria in Salzburg.
The images produced by lower-cost crop sensors may not have the initial vibrancy, shallow depth of field, or dynamic range of a full frame camera, but as you can see, with some love and know-how, you can still produce striking images. Again, it's all dependent on your budget and what you want to accomplish. Here is a fairly simple, informative article explaining the major differences between the two types of sensor to help you decide which system is best for you.
Amsterdam at night. Even low light can be captured with some steady hands.


The Canon Rebel T6i.



If SLRs aren't really your speed, there is always the point-and-shoot option. Usually cheaper, and much less technically daunting. These are the 'I just need proof I was there' option. However, with the advent of advanced camera technology in cellphones, the point-and-shoot market has taken a hit and may not be much of a future-proof option much longer. Another intriguing option is the mirrorless (compact system) camera.

Fuji is the current leader of the CSCs.
This option gives you the ability of looking through an electronic viewfinder rather than an optical one. By seeing a digital rendering of the image, you see what the camera will capture before snapping the photo. In contrast, DSLRs give you a 'true view' through an optical viewfinder that tells you what the lens sees before the camera processes the image. Different strokes. Different folks. The prices on these mirrorless systems range from 'Wow, that's cheap!' to 'Wait, why don't I just get an expensive SLR?' However, the best of the best (Fuji X100t) is still only about $1,100. Since I actually have very limited experience with these types of camera systems, check this link out for more information.

Cell Phones

Like it or not, the time when cell phone cameras were a joke have come and gone. Even the lower-end camera phones can now, when in symphony with mobile editing software like Snapseed or Instagram, can produce gallery-quality images just in the palm of your hand (please, for Ansell Adams' sake, though, shoot your landscapes in landscape format). If all you're looking for out of your travel photos is some solid wide-angle landscapes and a fun selfie or two, your phone is all the equipment you need. Don't feel like any less of a photographer because you've only got a cell phone. Know what you want to shoot, compose the shot, tweak it a bit in post, and you'll be just as happy (with less gear to carry around, too!). As long as you don't ruin one of our shots with a terribly timed selfie, we can remain photo-buddies. We, at Checkpoint Chanislawski take plenty of photos with our cell phones and some even make it to our Instagram.

Sunset over Nha Trang, Vietnam. Taken on my Droid Turbo 2.
I'm not going to tell you what the best camera phone is because I genuinely don't know (care) and therefore cannot tell you (lie) that the camera should be the reason you purchase a particular cell phone. However, I can tell you that I purchased a phone that neither had the best camera or was the most expensive option and I still can get pretty fair results. With the Motorola Droid Turbo 2, a little knowledge of framing and composition, and Snapseed, we're able to take some stunning photos when we either can't pull out the Canon or can't be bothered to.

Slightly cumbersome, but well-made.
Other Gear

Aside from the obvious things like lens caps and extra batteries (DO NOT LEAVE HOME WITHOUT THEM), if you want your camera to last and your pictures to pop, you're going to need some support gear to both enhance your photos and keep it protected. Start with the case. The proper case will give you piece of mind that your gear is protected and help alleviate the burden of carrying a cumbersome camera and lens combo. Checkpoint Chanislawski always has at least one camera and one lens on them during their travels (if not more). For us, that means a case with padded compartments.

A must-have accessory!
If you want your images to pop immediately (without any touch ups), I cannot recommend a circular polarizing filter enough. It helps reduce glare on reflective surfaces (and often will remove unwanted reflections) and makes outdoor colors pop with much more brilliance than the lens alone. I say it is recommended for outdoor shots because it does often cut down almost an entire stop of light coming through the lens, which will make the image darker. However, you will notice an immediate jump in the quality of your landscapes once you add a polarizing filter and tune it just right.

Comparing images with and without the circular polarizing filter.
The Verdict

Each photographer (whether they be professional, amateur, or casual) has specific needs when it comes to the equipment they choose to bring with them. A professional may decide to focus on taking rich, vibrant landscapes, and therefore may lean more toward a full-frame sensor camera with wide lenses and a polarizing filter. An amateur may want to chronicle city life of a local population from afar and be compelled to go with a smaller, crop-sensor camera and a telephoto lens. Maybe a casual photographer just wants selfies to prove they've been everywhere they say they've been and only tote a phone and an app. Whatever the aim, make sure you go over a couple of things before you take the plunge into buying gear.

First and foremost, what is your budget? If you aren't looking to break the bank, but yearn for something more intuitive and responsive than your cell phone or old point-and-shoot, try looking into the mirrorless cameras like the Olympus, Sony, or Fuji lines of mirrorless systems. Keep in mind that these options come in a wide range of prices. If you're ready to try your hand at an SLR-type interface for the first time, I recommend saving your big-purchase money for when you have more experience. Instead, going with a crop-sensor option like the Canon Rebel series and a nice lens or two. If you, like us, have loved shooting with an DSLR and want to upgrade to more professional-looking images with a greater clarity and dynamic range, take the plunge and go with a full-frame option. Both Canon and Nikon have great DSLR options in a couple of different price brackets. Keeping in mind that lenses for these bodies will be pricey.

Next, what are you looking to do with your gear? Do you want better images, but not the hassle of going through settings every shot? If you're just looking for a camera to shoot on auto, the lower cost of a crop-sensor DSLR may be your route. The auto settings on the new Canon Rebel line are wonderful for someone who wants the camera to do the heavy lifting. Are you someone that wants light, compact, powerful gear with a low profile? Try the mirrorless route. Tiny and lightweight, but powerful and versatile, the Fuji X100 series can be a great travel companion. Want a great sensor and don't mind a little extra weight around your neck in your travels? Our Canon 6D has proven to be a great buy. With built-in WiFi and GPS connectivity, you can transfer favorite images straight to your phone already geo-tagged and ready to upload to the web.

Whatever the final choice, remember that the images you want people to see first and foremost come from your eye. Your individual perspective when you travel is what is going to make the image memorable more than any technical detail a camera system can provide. In the end, the satisfaction of putting your eye to the eyepiece and capturing a moment from your travels will be worth any price you may end of paying. Happy shooting, everyone.

Monday, March 14, 2016

Travel Affordability


Two freelance film crew members (married to each other)
 attempt to explore Southeast Asia (SEA) in "100 Days" 
on a shoestring budget.

Day 1: Vicky and Mike's last stateside selfie from LAX
We call ourselves "Checkpoint Chanislawski." It's a mash-up of our surnames: Chan and Stanislawski. One year of planning and saving is how we turned a dream into reality. One year that also cost us twelve months of rent in Los Angeles, bills, student loans, more bills, five round trip flights to our hometown of Chicago, nights out with friends, and probably a cumulative four months of unemployment between the both of us. So how do we AFFORD to travel this magnificent Earth? Here’s how WE did it:

SET A DATE
Day 9: Sunlight breaks through some clouds 
over Wat Pho in Bangkok, Thailand
Just like planning for a wedding, we chose a date in the near future that would serve as a deadline for setting aside funding. From our previous backpacking excursion through Europe in 2014, we could reasonably predict that it would take us one year to save up for SEA, especially since the cost of living is considerably cheaper there.

LIMIT CONSUMPTION
As Americans, we’ve been indoctrinated from birth to buy, buy, buy. Starbucks every day. A bigger TV. The newest iPhone. The latest fashion. Instead, we brew our coffee at home. Most of our furniture is bought second or even third hand off of Craigslist. We rarely update our wardrobe, but when we do, we turn to thrift stores. Thankfully, the L.A. scene provides us with a quick turnaround rate on name brand digs for dirt cheap.

BUY ON A TUESDAY, FLY ON A TUESDAY
(or sometimes Wednesday)
From reading travel blogs and being avid travelers, we’ve noticed that airfare tends to be cheaper on Tuesdays. This makes sense because most 9-5ers only have the luxury of taking off Fridays or Mondays to travel rather than mid-week, thus driving up prices on those days. Also, the prime time to buy is 5-8 weeks before the desired departure date. This is what I call “The Golden Period.” It’s the brief window of lower fares offered in between purchases made by the overly-prepared vacationers and the last-minute seat fillers.

Day 10: Silhouette of the majestic Angkor Wat complex in Cambodia


WATCH IT GROW
Our savings account dedicated to our trip, that is. Like a home-grown tomato plant, we nurtured our savings account to fruition. Instead of water and sunlight, though, we used portions of our paycheck. Sometimes we could only transfer $10, other times we were able to throw in hundreds. But the more we invested, the more worldly experiences we could envision. And so we watched our savings grow.


FOREGO LUXURIES WHILE TRAVELING
Day 39: Abseiling next to a roaring waterfall in
  Da Lat, Vietnam
We budget for hostels, street food vendors, and ground transportation. Our goal is to average $30/day/person for our entire trip. A low-key day of walking around, hanging out at public parks, and people watching can help off-set an expensive day of canyoning through forests and waterfalls.

 Accommodations: A hostel bed or budget hotel room can be found for $5-$10 USD/night, even with A/C (for my husband who is covered in fur, it’s necessary in SEA). We occasionally find deals on Agoda.com for accommodations that include a complimentary breakfast.

Food: A hearty meal at a food stall on the street corner can cost $1-$2. Beer can be found for 50 cents in some areas!

Transportation: We tolerated a thirteen hour coach bus ride from Bangkok to Phnom Penh for $9 each, whereas a one-way/one hour flight costs roughly $60/person. As with many things in life, it’s either time or money. Our $49/person open tour “hop-on-hop-off” sleeper bus through Vietnam has proven to be most rewarding. That’s quite a deal for exploring seven cities in one month across the expanse of over one thousand miles.

 
Day 32: A steaming bowl of Vietnamese pho noodle soup
warms the soul!
We booked our Vietnam open tour bus
through TM Camel. We'll hopefully post
 a complete guide to surviving a sleeper
bus before the end of our trip.
LET'S BE HONEST
Through a series of fortunate events and life choices, we can afford to travel because we have fewer financial responsibilities than others and an extremely flexible work schedule. We don’t have dependents or children. We rent, so we don’t pay a mortgage. We are relatively healthy people. But we’ve earned every penny and we live modestly. Some travel articles will boast that anyone can travel the world. Traveling is not for everyone and not everyone can afford to travel. However, by sharing our experience, we hope to encourage the daydreamers to wake up and see that world exploration is possible.

Day 44: Maybe the grass (or rice) is greener on the other side?
Luscious rice paddy fields in Hoi An, Vietnam
And now we leave you with ten more tips that we actually follow...

PRACTICAL POINTERS FOR SAVING MONEY
At home or abroad
  1. Sublet your apartment or rent out your house.
  2. Suspend your cell phone plan while traveling. Free WiFi can be found most anywhere.
  3. Share a meal with your partner/friend when eating out. It's a diet plan too!
  4. Get a reusable water bottle with a filter and stop buying plastic water bottles.
  5. Do your research. Spending extra time comparing costs can save hundreds.
  6. If you like going to the movies, opt for a matinee screening for half the price of a normal ticket.
  7. Check up on current exchange rates before you enter a different country. Knowing the value of things can defend you from scam artists.
  8. Carpool. It's a great excuse to sing-along together to your favorite guilty pleasure pop songs.
  9. If there is something expensive you want to have, whine about wanting it for the next six months. If you still want it, get it. Or don't get it, save the money, and whine for another several months.
  10. Volunteer to do something that's enjoyable to you. It's a free activity that also gives back. Play with kittens at a no-kill shelter for four hours? Don't mind if I do!


Tuesday, February 16, 2016

As We Prepare to Leave Thailand...

Three weeks have passed since we arrived in the lush, sprawling landscape that is Thailand. Each individual experience thus far has, like all our travel experiences, so enriched our lives that it would be nearly impossible to do them all justice in one blog post.

Vicky gazes over the Bangkok landscape.
From playing with urban monkeys in Lopburi to eating countless varieties of cheap, fragrant street food. From enjoying the comfort of a taxi ride to relishing the experience of a modern mass transit system like the Metropolitan Rapid Transit (MRT) or Bangkok Rapid Transit (BTS). From the beaches of Koh Semet to the temples of Ayutthaya, Thailand has so much to offer anyone with at least one working sense. That being said, as we prepare to depart this unique locale, let's talk about our chosen base of operations: Bangkok.

First things first. Thailand is hot. Thailand is extremely hot. Be prepared for heat when traveling here.
Not sure liquification is covered by our Traveler's Insurance.
Plenty of sunscreen and bug repellent. The city is covered in concrete and that seems to make the heat even more intense. As you traverse this urban jungle and make your way through the thick forest of telephone poles and concrete stanchions, be sure to enjoy the hospitality of the locals. The Thai are truly a friendly people. A couple of choice learned phrases like, 'Hello,' (sa-wat-dee) 'How much?' (tao lai) 'Excuse me,' (tona kop) 'Thank you,' (kop kun) go a long way to ingratiating yourself to the local population (of all nationalities). Forgive anyone trying to push merchandise on you because for every one of them, there are two people who are going to cook, prepare and plate a meal for you for a little over $1USD, and do it with an honest smile.

Children playing near Wat Pho.
 Bangkok is not the easiest place to get around, especially if you choose to go without a cell phone data plan (as we do when we travel). However, you have a veritable buffet of transit options when it comes to getting around Bangkok and the surrounding areas. First, for those of you sans data, I would recommend an offline, GPS-based mobile app like MAPS.ME for your location needs. Other than that, old school is always the best school. Physical, detailed maps and planning routes ahead of time. This is not the death of spontaneity, just being sure of your steps until getting acclimated with a given area. Not a day goes by where Vicky whips out a map and looks at me with crazy eyes and says, 'IT'S LIKE WE'RE ON THE AMAZING RACE.' Whether it be by rail, taxi, tuktuk, bus or walking, Bangkok has a sight to see on every corner (usually next to a 7-11). The rail system is not terribly widespread, but very efficient and cheap. Taxi service varies depending on location and time of day. Don't feel bad about sending one away if they deny your request to use the meter. They will try to quote a price that usually is in their best interest in that event. Haggle with them if you don't want to go to the trouble of finding a metered taxi. A good cabbie always deserves a tip, but since it isn't 100% customary to tip, just round up to the easiest 20฿ (Thai Baht).

Watch out for the wobbly sidewalks.
Walking the streets and sidewalks of Bangkok require strong ankles and good peripherals. Don't have your head buried in your phone unless you want to be stunned by a motorcyclist whizzing by, mere inches away. Yes. A motorcyclist. Traffic here is... dense. To alleviate some of the congestion (or just get around it), people will ride on the sidewalks, weaving in and out of pedestrian traffic and harrowingly navigating the makeshift array of cables, poles, and hawking stands. Because of this use, the sidewalks are uneven at best, broken obstacle courses at worst. Be. Aware.

While on the subject of navigating the streets, let's talk about why we're all really here. FOOD. Bangkok has us up to our ears in delicious street foods. Some familiar, some not so much. Rice, noodles, wantons, fried dough, meats on sticks, whole fishes, pork soups, sticky rice, curries...

I seem to have forgotten my point.
Normally, we try to go light on our eating throughout the day and eat out once in a great while. This is to save money and to keep us light on our feet to traverse each city with energy and agility. However, here it is actually more expensive to buy groceries and cook yourself than it is to buy a meal for two at least twice a day. It's horrifying and amazing at the same time. The abundance of choices and aromas is intoxicating and stupefying. Just snack throughout the day and sit down to a takeaway meal in the evening.

7-11 is a resource that should be taken advantage of. When you get money from an ATM, you get it in 1,000฿ increments. Many vendors and taxis simply don't carry enough cash to change that out, so every now and then, go get a 14฿ (about 40¢) Thai milk tea and use those large bills to get ALL THE SMALL CHANGE. 7-11 has cash for days.

7-11. Resource.
Like any major metropolitan area, the traffic is horrid, the air is almost unbreathable, and to find any semblance of serenity, you need to travel at least an hour away from the city's borders. However, there is an experience in every step, an event near every bus stop, and just enough reminders of home to make Bangkok an ideal place to dip your toes in the Southeast Asian waters comfortably. It is an enormous pond teeming with life. From the vibrant colors and angular lines of the architecture above to the stratified layers of food, grime, and drinks spilled from clinked glasses of the streets below, Bangkok is a city unlike any other. Nearly familiar on its surface, yet unique in its heart. We'll see you on the streets, so sawatdee for now.
Until next time...

Monday, February 1, 2016

Crossing the Date Line...

Well, Checkpointers, we're here! Sawadikap, from Thailand! We made it across the Pacific to Japan and onto Bangkok. After an 11 hour flight to Tokyo, meeting up with our friend Ashley from Chicago, and a 6 hour flight to Bangkok, we were understandably wiped and confused.

"...AH-WHAT. NOTHING... Sorry?"
Sufficed to say, we were ready to jump in a taxi and let them do all the work.

However, that was not to be. This is not Europe and English is not the near-guarantee we got used to there. In Europe, we were able to get away with attempting the local languages and our politeness would be recognized and often appreciated. Here, you had better be ready with your dictionaries (we weren't) because not many of the locals speak English. Attempting to flag down a cab that would take us to our address (printed in English, of course) was not easy. Even with our friend's phone navigating us, it was still an adventure.

Once we found our accommodations for the night, our brains had been so forcibly woken up to deal with the transportation issue that I had a little trouble getting to sleep.

The body was willing, however the mind...
Eventually, sleep was achieved and rest was found. Let's discuss our first couple of days in Thailand in one of the only efficient means I know how; photographs.

Bangkok.
What.
We got to Bangkok under cover of night. The streets we walked were quiet and devoid of commerce. First impressions of the city were hard to come by as it would take a while to mine through the stratified layers of character and grime alike. Upon sunrise, the vendors begin to peel back their shutters and the nostalgic aromas of cooking oil and charred meat overpower the smells of a hot, humid urban center. It's at this moment that Bangkok achieves the apex of it's charm.
Taken in that rare, fleeting moment in Khao San when traffic is light.
The city's countless motorbikes weave expertly in and out of traffic or simply skip traffic altogether and hop onto the sidewalk and hope pedestrians are paying attention. Cables carrying electricity, phone lines, or just drying laundry wrap around every surface like a strangler fig. The motto of this burgeoning town seems to be, 'Just keep building.' Every surface is built upon. If a structure is still standing, build on it or add to it. Pop up vendors who have found themselves a spot to call their own improvise with whatever building materials are at their disposal. Need a place to eat our delicious noodles? There is some sheet metal attached to a fence, a telephone pole and the side of a 7-11. Guess what?

...

It's perfect.
Just eating food I'll never tire of at a price I'll never believe we got away with.
"Sà-wàt-dee kráp?" "Tâo rài?" "Kòp kun!" As is the case anywhere, use as much of the local language as possible. The locals appreciate it and it's hell of fun. Having spent only a few days here thus far, I'm sure my appreciation and admiration of Bangkok will only continue to grow. The first impressions were meant as a way to safely jump into the coursing river that is Bangkok. Once acclimated, we'll open ourselves to the historic temples and landmarks that are nestled in this ancient and ever-adapting city. Until then, I can only say we've waded out and the water seems inviting...
Wires, girders, and signage. Oh, my.

Monday, April 7, 2014

In Bruges...

I saw the film, 'In Bruges' when it came out once. I remember loving the humor and the drama of it. I don't remember the setting fairly well. I don't remember coming out of the theater saying, "I cannot wait to see this city."
I probably sympathized with Brendan Gleason during this.
Now, whether or not that had more to do with the portrayal of Bruges in the film or my age and relative lack of enthusiasm for travel back then, who knows? What I do know is that as we prepared to depart Paris for the beautiful country of Belgium, we originally had planned to visit either Brussels or Antwerp. However, a chance encounter while stranded overnight in a Welsh bus station (thanks, Megabus) with an Australian woman continued to tickle our brains. The new short-term friend told us that, based on our short term travel time, we should skip Brussels and just hit up the smaller, lesser-known gem that is Bruges.

Seriously. Bruges. Gem.
We've been to a lot of cities, a lot of countries on this whirlwind adventure thus far, and without a doubt, Bruges was exactly what my tired body and muddled mind needed. After over a month of sleeping in hostel cots and living room floors, day after day of walking seemingly endless distances in order to traverse major metropolitan areas and the unforeseen problems of living outside of an everyday routine for an extended period of time, I was ready for a respite. Often I would get angry at our damned power converter for not doing it's job adequately. Vicky would try to calm me down, saying it was an inanimate object.

Had to throw this 'In Bruges' reference in here somehow, didn't I?
However... Bruges, with it's small scale and inviting, walkable layout was exactly that. If I wasn't casually strolling along cobblestone paths, I was napping in one of the many public parks within shouting distance of the city center. When we weren't enjoying a local Belgian brew in a cozy cafe, we were posing for pictures along one of the endless photogenic canals. It truly was the definition of 'relaxing.' If not in the mood for an entirely relaxing trip, we definitely recommend renting a bicycle for the day and cruise around the city. Bruges is the perfect size for such an adventure and can be circumvented in under two hours.

You can't swing a dead cat without hitting a picturesque spot near a canal here.
One of the many tricks to fully enjoying a foreign country on a short trip is to ingratiate yourself to the locals. In Bruges, 99.9% of the people speak English and are more than happy to accommodate you in that way. However, try to learn how to say simple things like, 'Hello' or 'Thank You' ('Hallo' and 'Dank u wel' respectively - Bruges, as you can tell, was not difficult). That being said, just being polite and engaging is usually a great start in itself. Listen to locals when they give you tips as to where to go. It's always more satisfying when you find a great picnic spot or pub given to you by a local rather than Yelp or Google. In addition, remember to keep your eyes open for local ads. This has, on many occasions given us great things to do and try.

Gazing at Michelangelo's Madonna.
Vicky with harpist, Luc Vanlaere.
After visiting the Church of Our Lady to see Michelangelo's Madonna, we spotted an ad for a free harp concert nearby. Seeing how we had an hour to kill before dinner (did I mention it was free?), we decided to check it out.

After sitting in a dimly, although meticulously, lit room, we noticed a small stage littered with a half dozen worldly instruments. A concert harp, a Celtic harp, harps from China, Japan and even an Indian harp that has 50-something strings that play the same note. Not to mention a gong, singing bowls and even a new type of steel drum called a Hang that wasn't invented until 2001. Just an amazing conglomeration of uncommon instruments. 45 minutes later, Vicky and I were recovering from the emotional ride of Luc Vanlaere's stunning musical talents. All instruments were played by just him, at times more than one at a time! As if Bruges hadn't been soothing enough to my travel-weary mind, it decided to swoop in with the coup-de-grace and give me nearly an hour of what Vicky called a 'brain massage.'

Do yourself a favor. If you're ever near Belgium and you want a few days to relax and unwind, take advantage of what Bruges has to offer. Beer, chocolate, architecture, culture and some of the most serene parkland we've encountered in our travels thus far. You will not regret it. As my Rolodex of 'Cities I've Been To' continues to grow, I can honestly say that Bruges will probably always be near the front (and not because it's in alphabetical order).
Passed out in Bruges.

Monday, March 31, 2014

Checkpoint Checklist: Paris on a Budget

Ah Paris... the City of Love, the City of Light, the City of I Can't Afford Anything Nice. When money is tight, you might need to rethink your idea of a romantic getaway. Forget about champagne or sharing a candlelit dinner with a view of the Eiffel Tower. But don't be discouraged! Here are some tips on how to enjoy this city without breaking the bank.

The Eiffel Tower, photo taken from the Palais du Chaillot
CHEAPEST ACCOMODATIONS: After thoroughly searching the internet, Airbnb seems to offer the best and cheapest places to stay. If you're a single traveler, a bed in a hostel can still be cost efficient and more fun. But for couples who want a little bit more privacy, try renting a private room in the apartment or house of a local! We met some great hosts who provided us with a cozy bedroom and advice not found in tour books or online. The best part is you generally have access to a full kitchen and washer/dryer.
  • Price Range:
    • Hostels - 15-30/night per person. Prices fluctuate based on demand; Friday/Saturday nights cost more
    • "Motels" - 45-60; I give them low ratings in cleanliness and comfort. Paris is the bed bug capital.
    • Airbnb - 30-70; The website offers many filter options, lots of pictures, and reviews for each host so you can find exactly what you want, whether it be a pull-out sofa bed or an entire loft apartment to yourself.

Sacré Cœur, Montmartre, 18th Arrondissement
CREDIT CARD: I prefer using my credit card because I don't get charged a foreign transaction or conversion fee, but some places have a minimum purchase limit and many local shops don't accept American credit cards (explanation below).
  • MUST READ! Most automated machines in Paris do not accept swipe credit cards! We encountered problems while trying to purchase tickets for the Metro (the subway). We were also really disappointed when we tried to rent the city bicycles and the machine couldn't process any of our cards. In France and much of the world, they have chip-and-PIN cards that read differently than the magnetic strip cards we are issued in the States. However, many restaurants and stores have dual card readers.   
CASH MONEY: Always carry cash in the currency of the country you are visiting. Smaller denominations are easier to handle and the vendors will hate you (tourists) less.
  • Most ATMs don't charge any service fees but your bank most likely will.

The Seine River
FOOD: Not much fine dining for this couple! The cost of a regular dinner at most restaurants/bistros is between 12-16 per person. The cost of more refined dining is double or triple that. Our little taste buds will never experience the exquisite cuisine that Paris is known for. Instead, this is what our diet consisted of:
  • Crepes - the little huts along the streets of Paris offer sweet and savory crepes for 3-6 Euros
  • Ethnic Food - Paris is quite a diverse city. We found many kebab shops, fast food Chinese, Indian, and African. Warning! If you walk into a fast food place and you see a microwave behind the counter, run away! Unless you're hungry and desperate.
  • The Locals - No, we did not convert to cannibalism. Ask the people who know the ins and outs of the city best. Our hosts took us to a no-frills African restaurant where we sat in a dark basement and ate an incredibly tasty authentic Ivory Coast meal... with our hands.
  • Boulangerie Patisserie - On every block in Paris you can find these mom and pop bakeries that offer low-cost sandwiches, bread products, and pastries all baked fresh daily. 3.50 for a thin "foot-long" simple sub.
GETTING TIPSY: A glass of wine can be cheaper than a bottle of Coke. For some reason soda/pop is really expensive in Paris. So grab a seat in the patio of the nearest bistro and order a glass (3-4). The best advice from everyone and their mother is to grab a six-pack at a supermarket and stroll on down to the Seine River at night.
Locals and tourists hanging out along the river

Gettin' all spry on some Grolsch; Notre Dame Cathedral in the background
SEEING THE SIGHTS: So many incredible monuments, so little time. Paris is fun to explore on foot and the Metro weaves through every part of the city and beyond.
  • A single ride fare on the Metro costs €1.70. An unlimited day pass is roughly €8.
  • 704: number of steps to the second level of the Eiffel Tower. Climbing the stairs is a cheaper and "healthier" option than taking elevator. €5 stairs to second floor/€9 elevator to second floor/€15 elevator to the top. The wait is shorter too.
The right way to climb up the Eiffel Tower

The wrong way to climb up the Eiffel Tower

  •  Palace of Versailles - This amazing, decadent palace costs a decent €15, which includes an audio guide. However, the majestic gardens and parks are FREE! Take a whole day to wander the grounds and nap in the grass. It does take about an hour and a half by train to get there from the city centre.
  • The Gardens behind the Palace
    A moment of reflection by the Grand Canal
    Seven days in Paris doesn't make us experts, but hopefully these tips will make your first or next visit more enjoyable and help to keep your hard earned money in your pocket.
East view from the Eiffel Tower