Dam Good City...

A few days (weeks) late, but I think it’s about time Checkpoint Chanislawski updated you all on their travels through the capital of the Netherlands. After the wonderfully quiet respite that was Bruges, we decided to dive head first into the canals of Amsterdam. Directly upon entering the city, you feel the difference in vibe the place has to offer. It is packed with locals and transplants alike. This obviously is a double edged sword sometimes, but Amsterdam has found a way to make it work. We were, for the most part, treated very kindly and on more than a few occasions, people would go out of their way to make sure our time in their city was a memorable one.

We wanted to get the touristy stuff out of the way early, so first on our list was to (surprise, surprise) taste a world-renowned beer from its source. Off to the Heineken Experience we went. As are all tourist traps, it was overpriced, but did include plenty of tastes of the beer and fun, interactive things to do (a trait Amsterdam is quite fond of) regarding the brand . A brewery tour is a brewery tour, but it was still enjoyable and we now have two commemorative beer glasses to boot.

Vicky Chan, Heineken model.

Later in the first night, Vicky had a strange (albeit completely shared) desire to see the Red Light District. Now, fair warning. Like all major cities, Amsterdam is going to feel like one giant tourist trap. This was the overriding feeling as we strolled through the city center and canals and Red Light District during the day. A lot of cheap (but not nearly cheap enough), terrible food, a lot of tourists (mainly young white dudes – totally, bro), attempting to scour the city for the perfect ‘coffee shop,’ and a lot of waiters desperately trying to pull you into their restaurant, no matter how many times you say, “No” or “Ask me again and I will beat the crap out of you before you can say, ‘truffles.’” Sufficed to say, our hopes were not high (unlike some of the city’s patrons) that we would enjoy it much more at night.

Yes. The buildings bow like that. It is amazing and terrifying, much like many experiences in Amsterdam.

We were proven wrong. Amsterdam comes alive at night in a way that I have not experienced in most cities. There is a musical quality to the chatter that goes on. What was a lazy staccato of people meandering during the day becomes a vibrant, shimmering aria of humans moving in unison. The canals and narrow alleyways become veins and arteries of a city, pumping with life. Every street corner oozes with personality and one can only imagine the stories that have been created there and relished in for a lifetime afterward. I’m not going to go into detail on the stories we created, but you can imagine how far the vivid colors of the city coupled with a friendly and helpful store clerk can go for someone asking, “What do you know about Truffles?”

"DON'T POINT AT THE GROUND. PEOPLE WILL THINK YOU'RE CRAZY."

Amsterdam has a plethora of parks around and in the city from which you can choose to rest your weary head after a night of stories. This is something we Chanislawskis appreciate most about any city. We need a decent place for naptime. After a filling and delicious meal of authentic Dutch cuisine at The Pantry and more than a day of ducking and weaving through the bicycle traffic (seriously, this place is run by cyclists), we needed a place to rest.  Europe loves to lounge in its parks. Amsterdam is no different and it is glorious. After being serenaded to sleep by the sounds of a non-English-speaking busker muddling through half of Nirvana’s catalogue and some teenaged girls trying to play ‘chase the pigeon,’ we awoke refreshed and ready to move on to bigger and better things.

Pannenkoken and a combination of hutspot, zurkool, and stamppotten.
Top this off with a ludicrously high alcohol content Trappist beer. Seriously.

Having had enough of street performer versions of my favorite music, we headed off to the Bibliotheek Amsterdam (their National Library) to check it out. The beautifully blended modern building fits well within the riverfront landscape. The interior is something that would make Stanley Kubrick’s world of 2001: A Space Odyssey proud. Clean and efficient, yet with a definite touch of style, all the while, being laid out in a user-friendly way. Personally, I got lost in the music section where you can stream every song they have in the library as well as browse similar works. It’s like spending a day on AllMusic.com and then being able to take a copy of your new discoveries home with you after. This place, like much of Amsterdam, also deals with the concept of young education extremely well. This place is not a fortress of forced learning, but an inviting, safe place for kids to explore what interests them.

"This place has a stream-able version of DJ Shadow's 'Entroducing?' I approve of this library."

Down the riverfront from the library is the NEMO Science andTechnology Museum where the concepts of children learning and children playing become so blurred, that you can hardly tell one from the other. Just floor after mind-expanding floor of interactive education. If you ever visit (and you should) be sure to check out the section on sex. Up front, honest, and respective of adolescents’ minds. No censorship, but at the same time, fun and engaging without being too gratuitous. Just an incredibly progressive approach to a museum and a damn fun place to hang out for a morning.

"Wait. Sex isn't supposed to be terrifying and embarrassing?"

This Chanislawski would be replete not to mention an excellent bar we visited our last night in Amsterdam. After visiting the ‘coffee shops,’ (best line from a local on those, “Yeah, I guess you can get coffee there, too.”) we decided on a much more ‘us’ evening outside, on beanbags, under a windmill. While in Amsterdam, check out Langendijk Cafe. Great local brews and an intoxicating vibe. Why wouldn’t you want to drink under the largest wooden windmill in Europe?

It was a jam-packed few days in Amsterdam. Between using the public transit and public parks to their fullest extent, getting ‘coffee’ and ‘truffles,’ and touring the canals and Red Light Districts, Amsterdam is a beauty and beast with no comparison. Quaint and demur by day, brash and sultry by night. The city and it’s locals are open, inviting people who only want you to do what we did on our short time there: enjoy yourself and remember the way back home as best as possible. If you can only do one of those, however, there are plenty of parks in which to sleep off any excursion.

A lasting image of Amsterdam. The commercials are right. A Dam Good City.

Checkpoint Checklist: Paris on a Budget

Ah Paris... the City of Love, the City of Light, the City of I Can't Afford Anything Nice. When money is tight, you might need to rethink your idea of a romantic getaway. Forget about champagne or sharing a candlelit dinner with a view of the Eiffel Tower. But don't be discouraged! Here are some tips on how to enjoy this city without breaking the bank.

The Eiffel Tower, photo taken from the Palais du Chaillot

CHEAPEST ACCOMODATIONS: After thoroughly searching the internet, Airbnb seems to offer the best and cheapest places to stay. If you're a single traveler, a bed in a hostel can still be cost efficient and more fun. But for couples who want a little bit more privacy, try renting a private room in the apartment or house of a local! We met some great hosts who provided us with a cozy bedroom and advice not found in tour books or online. The best part is you generally have access to a full kitchen and washer/dryer.

• Price Range:
• Hostels - €15-30/night per person. Prices fluctuate based on demand; Friday/Saturday nights cost more
• "Motels" - €45-60; I give them low ratings in cleanliness and comfort. Paris is the bed bug capital.
• Airbnb - €30-70; The website offers many filter options, lots of pictures, and reviews for each host so you can find exactly what you want, whether it be a pull-out sofa bed or an entire loft apartment to yourself.

Sacré Cœur, Montmartre, 18th Arrondissement

CREDIT CARD: I prefer using my credit card because I don't get charged a foreign transaction or conversion fee, but some places have a minimum purchase limit and many local shops don't accept American credit cards (explanation below).

• MUST READ! Most automated machines in Paris do not accept swipe credit cards! We encountered problems while trying to purchase tickets for the Metro (the subway). We were also really disappointed when we tried to rent the city bicycles and the machine couldn't process any of our cards. In France and much of the world, they have chip-and-PIN cards that read differently than the magnetic strip cards we are issued in the States. However, many restaurants and stores have dual card readers.   

CASH MONEY: Always carry cash in the currency of the country you are visiting. Smaller denominations are easier to handle and the vendors will hate you (tourists) less.

• Most ATMs don't charge any service fees but your bank most likely will.



The Seine River

FOOD: Not much fine dining for this couple! The cost of a regular dinner at most restaurants/bistros is between €12-16 per person. The cost of more refined dining is double or triple that. Our little taste buds will never experience the exquisite cuisine that Paris is known for. Instead, this is what our diet consisted of:

• Crepes - the little huts along the streets of Paris offer sweet and savory crepes for 3-6 Euros
• Ethnic Food - Paris is quite a diverse city. We found many kebab shops, fast food Chinese, Indian, and African. Warning! If you walk into a fast food place and you see a microwave behind the counter, run away! Unless you're hungry and desperate.
• The Locals - No, we did not convert to cannibalism. Ask the people who know the ins and outs of the city best. Our hosts took us to a no-frills African restaurant where we sat in a dark basement and ate an incredibly tasty authentic Ivory Coast meal... with our hands.
• Boulangerie Patisserie - On every block in Paris you can find these mom and pop bakeries that offer low-cost sandwiches, bread products, and pastries all baked fresh daily. €3.50 for a thin "foot-long" simple sub.

GETTING TIPSY: A glass of wine can be cheaper than a bottle of Coke. For some reason soda/pop is really expensive in Paris. So grab a seat in the patio of the nearest bistro and order a glass (€3-€4). The best advice from everyone and their mother is to grab a six-pack at a supermarket and stroll on down to the Seine River at night.

Locals and tourists hanging out along the river

Gettin' all spry on some Grolsch; Notre Dame Cathedral in the background

SEEING THE SIGHTS: So many incredible monuments, so little time. Paris is fun to explore on foot and the Metro weaves through every part of the city and beyond.

• A single ride fare on the Metro costs €1.70. An unlimited day pass is roughly €8.
• 704: number of steps to the second level of the Eiffel Tower. Climbing the stairs is a cheaper and "healthier" option than taking elevator. €5 stairs to second floor/€9 elevator to second floor/€15 elevator to the top. The wait is shorter too.

The right way to climb up the Eiffel Tower

The wrong way to climb up the Eiffel Tower

•  Palace of Versailles - This amazing, decadent palace costs a decent €15, which includes an audio guide. However, the majestic gardens and parks are FREE! Take a whole day to wander the grounds and nap in the grass. It does take about an hour and a half by train to get there from the city centre.

• 

  The Gardens behind the Palace

  

  A moment of reflection by the Grand Canal

  Seven days in Paris doesn't make us experts, but hopefully these tips will make your first or next visit more enjoyable and help to keep your hard earned money in your pocket.

East view from the Eiffel Tower