The 'Pearl of Asia'

Cambodia is a land filled to the brim with history and heartbreak. From the terrible treatment of the people who actually put the temple complexes at Angkor Wat together a millennia ago to the brutal atrocities committed by the savage Khmer Rouge, the Khmer people have proven time and again to be resilient and more forgiving than this world deserves. This is a trait that becomes blindingly apparent as soon as you hop into a tuk tuk and speak to the driver for even the briefest moment. However, we're not here to give a history lesson. We're here to tell you about our experiences in the phenomenal city that is Phnom Penh.

A typical Phnom Penh street.

Vicky enjoys a sugar cane juice from a local cart vendor. SO GOOD.

Immediately upon arrival, the openness and friendliness of the people is apparent. 'Sues-day' and 'Akun' ('hello' and 'thank you' respectively) will get you a smile as wide as the Mekong itself. First thing you'll notice is that, like the rest of Southeast Asia, it's blisteringly hot. Being a cold weather person, myself, this entire trip has been like a three month back-and-forth trip between the sauna and steam room. Phnom Penh is similar to Bangkok in terms of humidity, but even hotter. Be prepared. We recommend at least one cooling towel (a contraption that is made cold by any temperature water and a snapping motion). It will turn an unbearable heat into... an almost bearable heat.

A meal for two and some drinks for about $2? YES.

If you can stay cool and hydrated, definitely rent a bicycle and traverse the crowded city streets with the locals. Bike up the riverfront, get some delicious, cheap noodles at one of the countless stands or pavement cafes, and grab a life-savingly refreshing sugar cane juice from a cart on the street (any street). Don't let the high price numbers scare you. It's 4,000 Cambodian Riels to $1 USD (they take mainly USD, anyway). If you choose to take a pass on the overpriced European food and stick to local fare, it's actually rare you'll find a meal that costs 5,000 of something. Once your belly is full, move on to your mind. Educate yourself on the history of the nation and some of what the local population has had to endure. Visit the S-21 Prison Museum and the Killing Fields.

The current view from inside S-21.

Bou Meng, one of the few survivors of S-21, poses with Vicky.

Inside the S-21 Prison (a high school converted into a prison camp by the Khmer Rouge), you will not see the sterile, disconnected pieces of history you often see in museums. The intent here was to give the viewer an uncomfortably visceral feel. A feeling that drives the information home much more severely than any behind-the-glass diorama and paragraph of backstory can ever provide. Decaying bed frames (used for torture and electrocution) remain in much the same position they were in 40 years ago when Pol Pot's followers were committing some of the most heinous acts conceivable. Despite the survival rate being nearly zero, there were survivors. People who embody the resilient spirit of the Cambodian people like they were mascots for an entire nation. Upon exiting the museum, you can chat with Bou Meng, a survivor of S-21. He will greet you with a smile, he will laugh with you, and show you that no matter what you are put through, you can survive.

This gorgeous modern structure houses
thousands of skulls from victims of the
Killing Fields.

To further ingrain this learning experience in your mind, take a trip just outside the city to the famous Killing Fields. Despite its dire name, it is an incredibly peaceful place. Take a leisurely, reflective stroll through the grounds and never forget the thousands of people who 'disappeared' here. Though these atrocities seem like something that happened in a time and place we cannot comprehend, we must realize that they happened only a few short decades ago in a world landscape not dissimilar to our own. We must, as a species, learn from our mistakes and places like these help us do exactly that.

On the more upbeat side of history is the French colonial influence in the architecture in Phnom Penh. One of the most recognizable areas for this is the Central Market. A huge building with a central area for jewels and four anti-chambers for clothing, electronics, foods, spices, etc... Dodge and weave around locals and tourists alike, haggle a little for a nice, comfy t-shirt, then head outside and get a cheap sandwich. Enjoy the thrum of the bustling shopping beast and come away with some gems of your own.

Shopping? Why not?

My 'Not-A-Good-Idea' face.

Phnom Penh is not just a relic to gaze at longingly. It is a modern city on the rise. Cambodia may be behind many other cities in SE Asia, but by no means is it left behind. Currently, there is a development project of massive scale on the riverfront. At the time of our 100 days in SE Asia, it is just a few nice bars and restaurants with a nice (albeit incomplete) view of the Mekong River, but in a short time, it will be an entire man-made island cityscape. Skyscrapers, resorts, golf courses, shopping and theater districts, etc... In the meantime, enjoy getting about 11 beers for around $10.

It may not be the 'Pearl of Asia' any longer, but it certainly has more than enough charm to justify a visit. With a base architecture of traditional Khmer and colonial French influence and a population as inviting as the aromas from the plethora of street foods, Phnom Penh is a bustling city that has a little bit of everything. If you can stand the heat and are looking for a friendly, laid back city to get lost in for a while, check it out.

Phnom Penh and the Mekong river await your arrival.

A Land of Ancient Temples

"It is of such extraordinary construction that it is not possible to describe it with a pen, particularly since it is like no other building in the world."António da Madalena

Cambodia is a land of many wonders. From the richness of the ancient landscape to the unwavering friendliness of the locals, there is no end to the list of reasons to visit this great region of Southeast Asia. Though the Khmer people have had their fair share of hardships, not the least of which is the most recent attempted genocide of the people by the Khmer Rouge dictator Pol Pot, the people have seemed to manage to keep a welcoming spirit to us humble travelers. The options for delicious street food go on for as long as the Mekong river itself, it seems. There is an architecture fused from traditional Cambodian (among other Asian influences) and French colonial that never ceases to intrigue as you walk the sometimes-too-narrow streets. So, as much as our focus of this post could zigzag as much as a Khmer tuk tuk driver, I would like to focus on the main reason I ever wanted to travel here in the first place: Angkor Wat.

Possibly one of the most recognizable structures in the world (it's on their flag!), Angkor Wat is but one of many temples that are scattered like architectural breadcrumbs throughout the northwest Cambodia area of Siem Reap. Whether or not a supreme being exists is beside the point, because when you walk through the chambers and galleries of this magnificent testament to human ingenuity, you can feel the millennium of worship and reverence simply oozing from its cobblestone paths and relief walls.

Vicky stands atop one of the outer courtyard staircases.

Originally a Hindu temple, it has been (like much of Southeast Asia) a Buddhist place of worship since the 12th century. Somehow, Buddhist monks of all ages manage to traverse the tricky walkways and hordes of tourists to do their daily routines. Speaking of those hordes of tourists, we at Checkpoint Chanislawski can't recommend enough to wake up early and catch a tuk tuk from your hotel and get to Angkor Wat for sunrise. This will allow you to be able to see the glorious sight of the sun slowly creeping over the towers to reveal the weathered stone and bathe the grounds in a quiet, magnificent glow. You'll also have the added bonus of rushing into the temple early to have the entire 1.6 million square meter complex to yourself for a while.

Who put this tree here?

A few things to remember. For one, Angkor Wat is only one of over a dozen awe-inspiring temples in the area for you to see. Each one brings its own uniquely impressive qualities. From the hundreds of incredibly detailed stone faces of Bayon, to the seemingly impossibly steep staircases of Ta Keo, to the sprawling strangler fig trees that grow in and out of Ta Prahm, the Angkor complex is a city of unique temples and you will need at least two days to explore them properly. Don't let this task be daunting to you. Enjoy it. Take your time and don't let any size crowd pressure you. Much like the wind, these temples are meant to be enjoyed hand in hand with serenity.

The many faces of Bayon Temple.

You will see the local people both in and around the temple trying to sell you goods from guidebooks, bottles of water, fresh coconuts, and clothing. Remember that this is their livelihood. If not interested, a polite, 'Otey Akun' (no thank you) will be appreciated. However, this will not stop most of them. They will try haggling with you. Just keep walking and repeating yourself. You will see musicians on many of the walkways playing some beautiful and quite appropriate music to enhance the mood. If you are so inclined, linger. Drop them some USD (or a few thousand Riel) for their efforts. However, never give in to beggars. Most will be children, taken out of school and encouraged to beg for a living. The Cambodian authorities will not stop them from doing this, but they urge tourists not to give the beggars money as it is a reason for the youth of Cambodia to not attend school and gain an education.

We'll meet you in the doorways to one of a thousand anti-chambers.

 Regardless, there is no end to architectural delight and human achievement around Angkor Wat. Dozens of temple complexes and thousands of tiny details await you to expand your world. Whether you relish each tiny stone carving or stand at the entrance to each complex in awe at the sheer scale of these gorgeous behemoths, let your inner-Indiana Jones out and go explore the largest playground known to man. Cambodia awaits you.

Another sunset witnessed by the stones with hopefully countless more to come...

As We Prepare to Leave Thailand...

Three weeks have passed since we arrived in the lush, sprawling landscape that is Thailand. Each individual experience thus far has, like all our travel experiences, so enriched our lives that it would be nearly impossible to do them all justice in one blog post.

Vicky gazes over the Bangkok landscape.

From playing with urban monkeys in Lopburi to eating countless varieties of cheap, fragrant street food. From enjoying the comfort of a taxi ride to relishing the experience of a modern mass transit system like the Metropolitan Rapid Transit (MRT) or Bangkok Rapid Transit (BTS). From the beaches of Koh Semet to the temples of Ayutthaya, Thailand has so much to offer anyone with at least one working sense. That being said, as we prepare to depart this unique locale, let's talk about our chosen base of operations: Bangkok.

First things first. Thailand is hot. Thailand is extremely hot. Be prepared for heat when traveling here.

Not sure liquification is covered by our Traveler's Insurance.

Plenty of sunscreen and bug repellent. The city is covered in concrete and that seems to make the heat even more intense. As you traverse this urban jungle and make your way through the thick forest of telephone poles and concrete stanchions, be sure to enjoy the hospitality of the locals. The Thai are truly a friendly people. A couple of choice learned phrases like, 'Hello,' (sa-wat-dee) 'How much?' (tao lai) 'Excuse me,' (tona kop) 'Thank you,' (kop kun) go a long way to ingratiating yourself to the local population (of all nationalities). Forgive anyone trying to push merchandise on you because for every one of them, there are two people who are going to cook, prepare and plate a meal for you for a little over $1USD, and do it with an honest smile.

Children playing near Wat Pho.

 Bangkok is not the easiest place to get around, especially if you choose to go without a cell phone data plan (as we do when we travel). However, you have a veritable buffet of transit options when it comes to getting around Bangkok and the surrounding areas. First, for those of you sans data, I would recommend an offline, GPS-based mobile app like MAPS.ME for your location needs. Other than that, old school is always the best school. Physical, detailed maps and planning routes ahead of time. This is not the death of spontaneity, just being sure of your steps until getting acclimated with a given area. Not a day goes by where Vicky whips out a map and looks at me with crazy eyes and says, 'IT'S LIKE WE'RE ON THE AMAZING RACE.' Whether it be by rail, taxi, tuktuk, bus or walking, Bangkok has a sight to see on every corner (usually next to a 7-11). The rail system is not terribly widespread, but very efficient and cheap. Taxi service varies depending on location and time of day. Don't feel bad about sending one away if they deny your request to use the meter. They will try to quote a price that usually is in their best interest in that event. Haggle with them if you don't want to go to the trouble of finding a metered taxi. A good cabbie always deserves a tip, but since it isn't 100% customary to tip, just round up to the easiest 20฿ (Thai Baht).

Watch out for the wobbly sidewalks.

Walking the streets and sidewalks of Bangkok require strong ankles and good peripherals. Don't have your head buried in your phone unless you want to be stunned by a motorcyclist whizzing by, mere inches away. Yes. A motorcyclist. Traffic here is... dense. To alleviate some of the congestion (or just get around it), people will ride on the sidewalks, weaving in and out of pedestrian traffic and harrowingly navigating the makeshift array of cables, poles, and hawking stands. Because of this use, the sidewalks are uneven at best, broken obstacle courses at worst. Be. Aware.

While on the subject of navigating the streets, let's talk about why we're all really here. FOOD. Bangkok has us up to our ears in delicious street foods. Some familiar, some not so much. Rice, noodles, wantons, fried dough, meats on sticks, whole fishes, pork soups, sticky rice, curries...

I seem to have forgotten my point.

Normally, we try to go light on our eating throughout the day and eat out once in a great while. This is to save money and to keep us light on our feet to traverse each city with energy and agility. However, here it is actually more expensive to buy groceries and cook yourself than it is to buy a meal for two at least twice a day. It's horrifying and amazing at the same time. The abundance of choices and aromas is intoxicating and stupefying. Just snack throughout the day and sit down to a takeaway meal in the evening.

7-11 is a resource that should be taken advantage of. When you get money from an ATM, you get it in 1,000฿ increments. Many vendors and taxis simply don't carry enough cash to change that out, so every now and then, go get a 14฿ (about 40¢) Thai milk tea and use those large bills to get ALL THE SMALL CHANGE. 7-11 has cash for days.

7-11. Resource.

Like any major metropolitan area, the traffic is horrid, the air is almost unbreathable, and to find any semblance of serenity, you need to travel at least an hour away from the city's borders. However, there is an experience in every step, an event near every bus stop, and just enough reminders of home to make Bangkok an ideal place to dip your toes in the Southeast Asian waters comfortably. It is an enormous pond teeming with life. From the vibrant colors and angular lines of the architecture above to the stratified layers of food, grime, and drinks spilled from clinked glasses of the streets below, Bangkok is a city unlike any other. Nearly familiar on its surface, yet unique in its heart. We'll see you on the streets, so sawatdee for now.

Until next time...

Crossing the Date Line...

Well, Checkpointers, we're here! Sawadikap, from Thailand! We made it across the Pacific to Japan and onto Bangkok. After an 11 hour flight to Tokyo, meeting up with our friend Ashley from Chicago, and a 6 hour flight to Bangkok, we were understandably wiped and confused.

"...AH-WHAT. NOTHING... Sorry?"

Sufficed to say, we were ready to jump in a taxi and let them do all the work.

However, that was not to be. This is not Europe and English is not the near-guarantee we got used to there. In Europe, we were able to get away with attempting the local languages and our politeness would be recognized and often appreciated. Here, you had better be ready with your dictionaries (we weren't) because not many of the locals speak English. Attempting to flag down a cab that would take us to our address (printed in English, of course) was not easy. Even with our friend's phone navigating us, it was still an adventure.

Once we found our accommodations for the night, our brains had been so forcibly woken up to deal with the transportation issue that I had a little trouble getting to sleep.

The body was willing, however the mind...

Eventually, sleep was achieved and rest was found. Let's discuss our first couple of days in Thailand in one of the only efficient means I know how; photographs.

Bangkok.

What.

We got to Bangkok under cover of night. The streets we walked were quiet and devoid of commerce. First impressions of the city were hard to come by as it would take a while to mine through the stratified layers of character and grime alike. Upon sunrise, the vendors begin to peel back their shutters and the nostalgic aromas of cooking oil and charred meat overpower the smells of a hot, humid urban center. It's at this moment that Bangkok achieves the apex of it's charm.

Taken in that rare, fleeting moment in Khao San when traffic is light.

The city's countless motorbikes weave expertly in and out of traffic or simply skip traffic altogether and hop onto the sidewalk and hope pedestrians are paying attention. Cables carrying electricity, phone lines, or just drying laundry wrap around every surface like a strangler fig. The motto of this burgeoning town seems to be, 'Just keep building.' Every surface is built upon. If a structure is still standing, build on it or add to it. Pop up vendors who have found themselves a spot to call their own improvise with whatever building materials are at their disposal. Need a place to eat our delicious noodles? There is some sheet metal attached to a fence, a telephone pole and the side of a 7-11. Guess what?

...

It's perfect.

Just eating food I'll never tire of at a price I'll never believe we got away with.

"Sà-wàt-dee kráp?" "Tâo rài?" "Kòp kun!" As is the case anywhere, use as much of the local language as possible. The locals appreciate it and it's hell of fun. Having spent only a few days here thus far, I'm sure my appreciation and admiration of Bangkok will only continue to grow. The first impressions were meant as a way to safely jump into the coursing river that is Bangkok. Once acclimated, we'll open ourselves to the historic temples and landmarks that are nestled in this ancient and ever-adapting city. Until then, I can only say we've waded out and the water seems inviting...

Wires, girders, and signage. Oh, my.

Still More Glorious Adventures Await...

Hey, Checkpointers! First off...

Seriously, though, with my knees, we won't be jumping this much.

 

Welcome back to Checkpoint Chanislawski! It's been almost two years, but we're finally paddling out for yet another adventure. The original plan was to explore Europe for 100 days, come back to L.A. and work enough to rebuild our travel fund and head out for 100 days in Southeast Asia in early 2016. The Chanislawskis are happy to report that the latter part of that prediction remains 100% factually accurate! However, and this brings me to our 'secondly,' while in Paris in 2014, we received word that our European excursion was to be cut short due to work-related reasons. Instead of coming back stateside in June of that year, we had to come back over a month earlier. That, in turn, made us decide between continuing the trip as we had been (at least a week in each city) and only see another country or two, or moving through Europe at breakneck speed, catching six more countries, but only spending a few days in each place.

DECISIONS.

 

 

 

Considering that we do not wake up each morn on luxurious bedding made of the monies of our enemies, we were unsure as to when we'd be able to see Europe again. Thus, we chose the sprinting option of taking in each place for mere days at a time in order to make footprints in as many locales as possible. In turn, we had less downtime to dedicate to things like updating the blog (or recovering from pains, sickness, exhaustion, whatever). So, as much as we're sure you've all been salivating these past two years to know how the rest of Europe was (post-Netherlands), you'll have to be satisfied with the same thing I've been telling myself everyday, 'I'll try to get to those blog entries on the cities we missed when my memory is not only pictures.'

...I'm sorry, but it was fantastic and want to do it justice.

In any case, we're here to announce our travels to Southeast Asia! In exactly one week, we'll be getting on a plane across the Pacific, stopping over in Japan for a minute, then landing in Bangkok, Thailand for the first leg of our journey.

After returning from Europe, we spent about a year saving enough money for this trip and bought our tickets to Thailand in November, thus cementing this endeavor in reality. A post soon will itemize as much as possible to help any of you wondering how this trip can be a reality for anyone. For now, this is just our announcement, slipped into the ether, that we are heading out! Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, Myanmar, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Philippines, and Japan here we come...

Bye Bye, European Wifi...

Sitting in my hostel bed before we begin our last morning in mainland Europe. We are currently in Munich, Germany and though the blog may be a couple weeks late updating you all on our adventures, I thought it apropos to have you with us for the actual 'wave goodbye' to this miraculous land. We completed this leg of the adventure by seeing yet another castle in Oberammergau. What a fitting way to suspend the magic for now. We will, of course, continue to tell the stories of our journey, but for now, it is time to shuffle off. Thank you, Europe. Thank you, readers. It is off to London to decompress a bit and then head back to L.A.

Statues WISH they had butts like ours'.

Dam Good City...

A few days (weeks) late, but I think it’s about time Checkpoint Chanislawski updated you all on their travels through the capital of the Netherlands. After the wonderfully quiet respite that was Bruges, we decided to dive head first into the canals of Amsterdam. Directly upon entering the city, you feel the difference in vibe the place has to offer. It is packed with locals and transplants alike. This obviously is a double edged sword sometimes, but Amsterdam has found a way to make it work. We were, for the most part, treated very kindly and on more than a few occasions, people would go out of their way to make sure our time in their city was a memorable one.

We wanted to get the touristy stuff out of the way early, so first on our list was to (surprise, surprise) taste a world-renowned beer from its source. Off to the Heineken Experience we went. As are all tourist traps, it was overpriced, but did include plenty of tastes of the beer and fun, interactive things to do (a trait Amsterdam is quite fond of) regarding the brand . A brewery tour is a brewery tour, but it was still enjoyable and we now have two commemorative beer glasses to boot.

Vicky Chan, Heineken model.

Later in the first night, Vicky had a strange (albeit completely shared) desire to see the Red Light District. Now, fair warning. Like all major cities, Amsterdam is going to feel like one giant tourist trap. This was the overriding feeling as we strolled through the city center and canals and Red Light District during the day. A lot of cheap (but not nearly cheap enough), terrible food, a lot of tourists (mainly young white dudes – totally, bro), attempting to scour the city for the perfect ‘coffee shop,’ and a lot of waiters desperately trying to pull you into their restaurant, no matter how many times you say, “No” or “Ask me again and I will beat the crap out of you before you can say, ‘truffles.’” Sufficed to say, our hopes were not high (unlike some of the city’s patrons) that we would enjoy it much more at night.

Yes. The buildings bow like that. It is amazing and terrifying, much like many experiences in Amsterdam.

We were proven wrong. Amsterdam comes alive at night in a way that I have not experienced in most cities. There is a musical quality to the chatter that goes on. What was a lazy staccato of people meandering during the day becomes a vibrant, shimmering aria of humans moving in unison. The canals and narrow alleyways become veins and arteries of a city, pumping with life. Every street corner oozes with personality and one can only imagine the stories that have been created there and relished in for a lifetime afterward. I’m not going to go into detail on the stories we created, but you can imagine how far the vivid colors of the city coupled with a friendly and helpful store clerk can go for someone asking, “What do you know about Truffles?”

"DON'T POINT AT THE GROUND. PEOPLE WILL THINK YOU'RE CRAZY."

Amsterdam has a plethora of parks around and in the city from which you can choose to rest your weary head after a night of stories. This is something we Chanislawskis appreciate most about any city. We need a decent place for naptime. After a filling and delicious meal of authentic Dutch cuisine at The Pantry and more than a day of ducking and weaving through the bicycle traffic (seriously, this place is run by cyclists), we needed a place to rest.  Europe loves to lounge in its parks. Amsterdam is no different and it is glorious. After being serenaded to sleep by the sounds of a non-English-speaking busker muddling through half of Nirvana’s catalogue and some teenaged girls trying to play ‘chase the pigeon,’ we awoke refreshed and ready to move on to bigger and better things.

Pannenkoken and a combination of hutspot, zurkool, and stamppotten.
Top this off with a ludicrously high alcohol content Trappist beer. Seriously.

Having had enough of street performer versions of my favorite music, we headed off to the Bibliotheek Amsterdam (their National Library) to check it out. The beautifully blended modern building fits well within the riverfront landscape. The interior is something that would make Stanley Kubrick’s world of 2001: A Space Odyssey proud. Clean and efficient, yet with a definite touch of style, all the while, being laid out in a user-friendly way. Personally, I got lost in the music section where you can stream every song they have in the library as well as browse similar works. It’s like spending a day on AllMusic.com and then being able to take a copy of your new discoveries home with you after. This place, like much of Amsterdam, also deals with the concept of young education extremely well. This place is not a fortress of forced learning, but an inviting, safe place for kids to explore what interests them.

"This place has a stream-able version of DJ Shadow's 'Entroducing?' I approve of this library."

Down the riverfront from the library is the NEMO Science andTechnology Museum where the concepts of children learning and children playing become so blurred, that you can hardly tell one from the other. Just floor after mind-expanding floor of interactive education. If you ever visit (and you should) be sure to check out the section on sex. Up front, honest, and respective of adolescents’ minds. No censorship, but at the same time, fun and engaging without being too gratuitous. Just an incredibly progressive approach to a museum and a damn fun place to hang out for a morning.

"Wait. Sex isn't supposed to be terrifying and embarrassing?"

This Chanislawski would be replete not to mention an excellent bar we visited our last night in Amsterdam. After visiting the ‘coffee shops,’ (best line from a local on those, “Yeah, I guess you can get coffee there, too.”) we decided on a much more ‘us’ evening outside, on beanbags, under a windmill. While in Amsterdam, check out Langendijk Cafe. Great local brews and an intoxicating vibe. Why wouldn’t you want to drink under the largest wooden windmill in Europe?

It was a jam-packed few days in Amsterdam. Between using the public transit and public parks to their fullest extent, getting ‘coffee’ and ‘truffles,’ and touring the canals and Red Light Districts, Amsterdam is a beauty and beast with no comparison. Quaint and demur by day, brash and sultry by night. The city and it’s locals are open, inviting people who only want you to do what we did on our short time there: enjoy yourself and remember the way back home as best as possible. If you can only do one of those, however, there are plenty of parks in which to sleep off any excursion.

A lasting image of Amsterdam. The commercials are right. A Dam Good City.

Morning-After Update...

Greetings from the morning after St. Patrick's Day! Since it was such an early start to the festivities yesterday morning, Vicky and I called it quits about... 12 hours and one incident with the police into our day of debauchery.

It was an amazing day and as I sit here with not much more than a slight headache at 7 am, I figured I'd update you all a bit while I checked how my Chicago sports teams are faring.

Starting with the Dublin St. Patrick's Festival Parade and rounding out with plenty of Guinness and Bulmer's (Magner's) cider, bad (amazing) food decisions and good company. The only hiccup in our trek was a run in with an overwhelmed police officer who went into our bag and took away our unopened beer. That was a bit of a buzz kill, but neither that nor the intermittent drizzle didn't dampen our spirits.

To close out the night, we took a spin on the most amazing carnival ride either of us had ever seen. Carny Culture lives on in Dublin. So, Happy Day After St. Patrick's Day, everyone! Time for some way-too-greasy breakfast.

Seeing Green...

A quick, cheery hello from Dublin! Sitting here in the pub attached to our hotel, The Bram Stoker, and the cheerful smiles of the staff don't make the WiFi any stronger, so this will be brief with just cell phone pictures (for now)...

A pop-up food market at Christchurch Cathedral.

Once again, Vicky and I seem to be acted like a magnet for sunny, unseasonably pleasant weather as we cut our swath across the British Isles. Despite a long, eventful and uncomfortable trip across England from London to Manchester to Hollyhead to Dublin via bus and ferry, we managed to make it into town with smiles on our faces and maps in our hands, ready for more adventures. It being St. Patrick's Day weekend in Dublin, there is no shortage of places to go and things to see.

As I write this, it is the eve of St. Patty's day, but we have already walked around the city many times over, been part of a city-wide treasure hunt, eaten another 'full something' breakfast (this time, Irish), been to the largest park in all of Europe, watched music played in the streets on stages big and small, drank Guinness from the source, and even seen a great movie floating on the Liffey River...

WHEW. IT HAS BEEN THREE DAYS.

Not bad for a placeholder, cellphone picture, huh?

That being said, as great as Dublin is, there is so much more Ireland has to offer than just the city center itself. Unfortunately, our time here in this great country is limited (on this trip, anyway), so great sights like Belfast and the Giant's Causeway will just have to live on without us for a while. Considering the many millennia of magic and history under her belt, I think Ireland will get along just fine. Us on the other hand... We'll see. Back to what we could see...

Dublin, more so than any other city thus far, has welcomed us with open arms and did it with a goofy grin and wonderfully quirky sense of humor. From our boisterous bartender/bellhop, Barry at the Bram Stoker to the wonderful gentleman we met outside Phoenix Park who showed us the way to not only a toilet, but 'one of the best pubs in Dublin,' there is something to be said for a population that get the most out of life not just through finding joy, but by sharing it with others. It could be friends, family, the people attached to the two closest barstools, or even weary travelers, the people of Dublin thus far have been nothing but helpful, kind and, above all, appreciative for our presence. The least I could do is raise a glass of Guinness in their honor.

The next to least I could do, is do it over and over and over again. Which is exactly what we plan to do tomorrow. Thank you, Dublin.

Sláinte!