Bye Bye, European Wifi...

Sitting in my hostel bed before we begin our last morning in mainland Europe. We are currently in Munich, Germany and though the blog may be a couple weeks late updating you all on our adventures, I thought it apropos to have you with us for the actual 'wave goodbye' to this miraculous land. We completed this leg of the adventure by seeing yet another castle in Oberammergau. What a fitting way to suspend the magic for now. We will, of course, continue to tell the stories of our journey, but for now, it is time to shuffle off. Thank you, Europe. Thank you, readers. It is off to London to decompress a bit and then head back to L.A.

Statues WISH they had butts like ours'.

Dam Good City...

A few days (weeks) late, but I think it’s about time Checkpoint Chanislawski updated you all on their travels through the capital of the Netherlands. After the wonderfully quiet respite that was Bruges, we decided to dive head first into the canals of Amsterdam. Directly upon entering the city, you feel the difference in vibe the place has to offer. It is packed with locals and transplants alike. This obviously is a double edged sword sometimes, but Amsterdam has found a way to make it work. We were, for the most part, treated very kindly and on more than a few occasions, people would go out of their way to make sure our time in their city was a memorable one.

We wanted to get the touristy stuff out of the way early, so first on our list was to (surprise, surprise) taste a world-renowned beer from its source. Off to the Heineken Experience we went. As are all tourist traps, it was overpriced, but did include plenty of tastes of the beer and fun, interactive things to do (a trait Amsterdam is quite fond of) regarding the brand . A brewery tour is a brewery tour, but it was still enjoyable and we now have two commemorative beer glasses to boot.

Vicky Chan, Heineken model.

Later in the first night, Vicky had a strange (albeit completely shared) desire to see the Red Light District. Now, fair warning. Like all major cities, Amsterdam is going to feel like one giant tourist trap. This was the overriding feeling as we strolled through the city center and canals and Red Light District during the day. A lot of cheap (but not nearly cheap enough), terrible food, a lot of tourists (mainly young white dudes – totally, bro), attempting to scour the city for the perfect ‘coffee shop,’ and a lot of waiters desperately trying to pull you into their restaurant, no matter how many times you say, “No” or “Ask me again and I will beat the crap out of you before you can say, ‘truffles.’” Sufficed to say, our hopes were not high (unlike some of the city’s patrons) that we would enjoy it much more at night.

Yes. The buildings bow like that. It is amazing and terrifying, much like many experiences in Amsterdam.

We were proven wrong. Amsterdam comes alive at night in a way that I have not experienced in most cities. There is a musical quality to the chatter that goes on. What was a lazy staccato of people meandering during the day becomes a vibrant, shimmering aria of humans moving in unison. The canals and narrow alleyways become veins and arteries of a city, pumping with life. Every street corner oozes with personality and one can only imagine the stories that have been created there and relished in for a lifetime afterward. I’m not going to go into detail on the stories we created, but you can imagine how far the vivid colors of the city coupled with a friendly and helpful store clerk can go for someone asking, “What do you know about Truffles?”

"DON'T POINT AT THE GROUND. PEOPLE WILL THINK YOU'RE CRAZY."

Amsterdam has a plethora of parks around and in the city from which you can choose to rest your weary head after a night of stories. This is something we Chanislawskis appreciate most about any city. We need a decent place for naptime. After a filling and delicious meal of authentic Dutch cuisine at The Pantry and more than a day of ducking and weaving through the bicycle traffic (seriously, this place is run by cyclists), we needed a place to rest.  Europe loves to lounge in its parks. Amsterdam is no different and it is glorious. After being serenaded to sleep by the sounds of a non-English-speaking busker muddling through half of Nirvana’s catalogue and some teenaged girls trying to play ‘chase the pigeon,’ we awoke refreshed and ready to move on to bigger and better things.

Pannenkoken and a combination of hutspot, zurkool, and stamppotten.
Top this off with a ludicrously high alcohol content Trappist beer. Seriously.

Having had enough of street performer versions of my favorite music, we headed off to the Bibliotheek Amsterdam (their National Library) to check it out. The beautifully blended modern building fits well within the riverfront landscape. The interior is something that would make Stanley Kubrick’s world of 2001: A Space Odyssey proud. Clean and efficient, yet with a definite touch of style, all the while, being laid out in a user-friendly way. Personally, I got lost in the music section where you can stream every song they have in the library as well as browse similar works. It’s like spending a day on AllMusic.com and then being able to take a copy of your new discoveries home with you after. This place, like much of Amsterdam, also deals with the concept of young education extremely well. This place is not a fortress of forced learning, but an inviting, safe place for kids to explore what interests them.

"This place has a stream-able version of DJ Shadow's 'Entroducing?' I approve of this library."

Down the riverfront from the library is the NEMO Science andTechnology Museum where the concepts of children learning and children playing become so blurred, that you can hardly tell one from the other. Just floor after mind-expanding floor of interactive education. If you ever visit (and you should) be sure to check out the section on sex. Up front, honest, and respective of adolescents’ minds. No censorship, but at the same time, fun and engaging without being too gratuitous. Just an incredibly progressive approach to a museum and a damn fun place to hang out for a morning.

"Wait. Sex isn't supposed to be terrifying and embarrassing?"

This Chanislawski would be replete not to mention an excellent bar we visited our last night in Amsterdam. After visiting the ‘coffee shops,’ (best line from a local on those, “Yeah, I guess you can get coffee there, too.”) we decided on a much more ‘us’ evening outside, on beanbags, under a windmill. While in Amsterdam, check out Langendijk Cafe. Great local brews and an intoxicating vibe. Why wouldn’t you want to drink under the largest wooden windmill in Europe?

It was a jam-packed few days in Amsterdam. Between using the public transit and public parks to their fullest extent, getting ‘coffee’ and ‘truffles,’ and touring the canals and Red Light Districts, Amsterdam is a beauty and beast with no comparison. Quaint and demur by day, brash and sultry by night. The city and it’s locals are open, inviting people who only want you to do what we did on our short time there: enjoy yourself and remember the way back home as best as possible. If you can only do one of those, however, there are plenty of parks in which to sleep off any excursion.

A lasting image of Amsterdam. The commercials are right. A Dam Good City.

In Bruges...

I saw the film, 'In Bruges' when it came out once. I remember loving the humor and the drama of it. I don't remember the setting fairly well. I don't remember coming out of the theater saying, "I cannot wait to see this city."

I probably sympathized with Brendan Gleason during this.

Now, whether or not that had more to do with the portrayal of Bruges in the film or my age and relative lack of enthusiasm for travel back then, who knows? What I do know is that as we prepared to depart Paris for the beautiful country of Belgium, we originally had planned to visit either Brussels or Antwerp. However, a chance encounter while stranded overnight in a Welsh bus station (thanks, Megabus) with an Australian woman continued to tickle our brains. The new short-term friend told us that, based on our short term travel time, we should skip Brussels and just hit up the smaller, lesser-known gem that is Bruges.

Seriously. Bruges. Gem.

We've been to a lot of cities, a lot of countries on this whirlwind adventure thus far, and without a doubt, Bruges was exactly what my tired body and muddled mind needed. After over a month of sleeping in hostel cots and living room floors, day after day of walking seemingly endless distances in order to traverse major metropolitan areas and the unforeseen problems of living outside of an everyday routine for an extended period of time, I was ready for a respite. Often I would get angry at our damned power converter for not doing it's job adequately. Vicky would try to calm me down, saying it was an inanimate object.

Had to throw this 'In Bruges' reference in here somehow, didn't I?

However... Bruges, with it's small scale and inviting, walkable layout was exactly that. If I wasn't casually strolling along cobblestone paths, I was napping in one of the many public parks within shouting distance of the city center. When we weren't enjoying a local Belgian brew in a cozy cafe, we were posing for pictures along one of the endless photogenic canals. It truly was the definition of 'relaxing.' If not in the mood for an entirely relaxing trip, we definitely recommend renting a bicycle for the day and cruise around the city. Bruges is the perfect size for such an adventure and can be circumvented in under two hours.

You can't swing a dead cat without hitting a picturesque spot near a canal here.

One of the many tricks to fully enjoying a foreign country on a short trip is to ingratiate yourself to the locals. In Bruges, 99.9% of the people speak English and are more than happy to accommodate you in that way. However, try to learn how to say simple things like, 'Hello' or 'Thank You' ('Hallo' and 'Dank u wel' respectively - Bruges, as you can tell, was not difficult). That being said, just being polite and engaging is usually a great start in itself. Listen to locals when they give you tips as to where to go. It's always more satisfying when you find a great picnic spot or pub given to you by a local rather than Yelp or Google. In addition, remember to keep your eyes open for local ads. This has, on many occasions given us great things to do and try.

Gazing at Michelangelo's Madonna.

Vicky with harpist, Luc Vanlaere.

After visiting the Church of Our Lady to see Michelangelo's Madonna, we spotted an ad for a free harp concert nearby. Seeing how we had an hour to kill before dinner (did I mention it was free?), we decided to check it out.

After sitting in a dimly, although meticulously, lit room, we noticed a small stage littered with a half dozen worldly instruments. A concert harp, a Celtic harp, harps from China, Japan and even an Indian harp that has 50-something strings that play the same note. Not to mention a gong, singing bowls and even a new type of steel drum called a Hang that wasn't invented until 2001. Just an amazing conglomeration of uncommon instruments. 45 minutes later, Vicky and I were recovering from the emotional ride of Luc Vanlaere's stunning musical talents. All instruments were played by just him, at times more than one at a time! As if Bruges hadn't been soothing enough to my travel-weary mind, it decided to swoop in with the coup-de-grace and give me nearly an hour of what Vicky called a 'brain massage.'

Do yourself a favor. If you're ever near Belgium and you want a few days to relax and unwind, take advantage of what Bruges has to offer. Beer, chocolate, architecture, culture and some of the most serene parkland we've encountered in our travels thus far. You will not regret it. As my Rolodex of 'Cities I've Been To' continues to grow, I can honestly say that Bruges will probably always be near the front (and not because it's in alphabetical order).

Passed out in Bruges.

Checkpoint Checklist: Paris on a Budget

Ah Paris... the City of Love, the City of Light, the City of I Can't Afford Anything Nice. When money is tight, you might need to rethink your idea of a romantic getaway. Forget about champagne or sharing a candlelit dinner with a view of the Eiffel Tower. But don't be discouraged! Here are some tips on how to enjoy this city without breaking the bank.

The Eiffel Tower, photo taken from the Palais du Chaillot

CHEAPEST ACCOMODATIONS: After thoroughly searching the internet, Airbnb seems to offer the best and cheapest places to stay. If you're a single traveler, a bed in a hostel can still be cost efficient and more fun. But for couples who want a little bit more privacy, try renting a private room in the apartment or house of a local! We met some great hosts who provided us with a cozy bedroom and advice not found in tour books or online. The best part is you generally have access to a full kitchen and washer/dryer.

• Price Range:
• Hostels - €15-30/night per person. Prices fluctuate based on demand; Friday/Saturday nights cost more
• "Motels" - €45-60; I give them low ratings in cleanliness and comfort. Paris is the bed bug capital.
• Airbnb - €30-70; The website offers many filter options, lots of pictures, and reviews for each host so you can find exactly what you want, whether it be a pull-out sofa bed or an entire loft apartment to yourself.

Sacré Cœur, Montmartre, 18th Arrondissement

CREDIT CARD: I prefer using my credit card because I don't get charged a foreign transaction or conversion fee, but some places have a minimum purchase limit and many local shops don't accept American credit cards (explanation below).

• MUST READ! Most automated machines in Paris do not accept swipe credit cards! We encountered problems while trying to purchase tickets for the Metro (the subway). We were also really disappointed when we tried to rent the city bicycles and the machine couldn't process any of our cards. In France and much of the world, they have chip-and-PIN cards that read differently than the magnetic strip cards we are issued in the States. However, many restaurants and stores have dual card readers.   

CASH MONEY: Always carry cash in the currency of the country you are visiting. Smaller denominations are easier to handle and the vendors will hate you (tourists) less.

• Most ATMs don't charge any service fees but your bank most likely will.



The Seine River

FOOD: Not much fine dining for this couple! The cost of a regular dinner at most restaurants/bistros is between €12-16 per person. The cost of more refined dining is double or triple that. Our little taste buds will never experience the exquisite cuisine that Paris is known for. Instead, this is what our diet consisted of:

• Crepes - the little huts along the streets of Paris offer sweet and savory crepes for 3-6 Euros
• Ethnic Food - Paris is quite a diverse city. We found many kebab shops, fast food Chinese, Indian, and African. Warning! If you walk into a fast food place and you see a microwave behind the counter, run away! Unless you're hungry and desperate.
• The Locals - No, we did not convert to cannibalism. Ask the people who know the ins and outs of the city best. Our hosts took us to a no-frills African restaurant where we sat in a dark basement and ate an incredibly tasty authentic Ivory Coast meal... with our hands.
• Boulangerie Patisserie - On every block in Paris you can find these mom and pop bakeries that offer low-cost sandwiches, bread products, and pastries all baked fresh daily. €3.50 for a thin "foot-long" simple sub.

GETTING TIPSY: A glass of wine can be cheaper than a bottle of Coke. For some reason soda/pop is really expensive in Paris. So grab a seat in the patio of the nearest bistro and order a glass (€3-€4). The best advice from everyone and their mother is to grab a six-pack at a supermarket and stroll on down to the Seine River at night.

Locals and tourists hanging out along the river

Gettin' all spry on some Grolsch; Notre Dame Cathedral in the background

SEEING THE SIGHTS: So many incredible monuments, so little time. Paris is fun to explore on foot and the Metro weaves through every part of the city and beyond.

• A single ride fare on the Metro costs €1.70. An unlimited day pass is roughly €8.
• 704: number of steps to the second level of the Eiffel Tower. Climbing the stairs is a cheaper and "healthier" option than taking elevator. €5 stairs to second floor/€9 elevator to second floor/€15 elevator to the top. The wait is shorter too.

The right way to climb up the Eiffel Tower

The wrong way to climb up the Eiffel Tower

•  Palace of Versailles - This amazing, decadent palace costs a decent €15, which includes an audio guide. However, the majestic gardens and parks are FREE! Take a whole day to wander the grounds and nap in the grass. It does take about an hour and a half by train to get there from the city centre.

• 

  The Gardens behind the Palace

  

  A moment of reflection by the Grand Canal

  Seven days in Paris doesn't make us experts, but hopefully these tips will make your first or next visit more enjoyable and help to keep your hard earned money in your pocket.

East view from the Eiffel Tower  

Floating Through Edinburgh

When posing for travel photos, we automatically put on a practiced smile and rest our hands on our hips like celebrities or around the belly of our mate. Soon the pictures look all the same; just drop in a different background. In Edinburgh, we changed it up a bit.

 

Scottish Parliament Building

See what we did there? Not really? Look at this one.

Arthur's Seat

This next one is my favorite...

National Monument

After taking the above photo, the image instantly reminded me of Rene Magritte's paintings of floating men. The men, dressed in standard clothing, stand in a placid posture as if waiting for a bus. They are placed within a mundane background. The normality of it all almost overrides the ridiculous fact that they are floating in mid air.
 

 

Here we tried it from a different angle.

Stirling Castle

Stairway to Heaven?

Stirling Castle Chapel

Mike has been a trooper during these photo shoots. We'll be setting up a fund for new knees and ankles when we come home. Stay tuned for "Floating Through London."

Morning-After Update...

Greetings from the morning after St. Patrick's Day! Since it was such an early start to the festivities yesterday morning, Vicky and I called it quits about... 12 hours and one incident with the police into our day of debauchery.

It was an amazing day and as I sit here with not much more than a slight headache at 7 am, I figured I'd update you all a bit while I checked how my Chicago sports teams are faring.

Starting with the Dublin St. Patrick's Festival Parade and rounding out with plenty of Guinness and Bulmer's (Magner's) cider, bad (amazing) food decisions and good company. The only hiccup in our trek was a run in with an overwhelmed police officer who went into our bag and took away our unopened beer. That was a bit of a buzz kill, but neither that nor the intermittent drizzle didn't dampen our spirits.

To close out the night, we took a spin on the most amazing carnival ride either of us had ever seen. Carny Culture lives on in Dublin. So, Happy Day After St. Patrick's Day, everyone! Time for some way-too-greasy breakfast.

Seeing Green...

A quick, cheery hello from Dublin! Sitting here in the pub attached to our hotel, The Bram Stoker, and the cheerful smiles of the staff don't make the WiFi any stronger, so this will be brief with just cell phone pictures (for now)...

A pop-up food market at Christchurch Cathedral.

Once again, Vicky and I seem to be acted like a magnet for sunny, unseasonably pleasant weather as we cut our swath across the British Isles. Despite a long, eventful and uncomfortable trip across England from London to Manchester to Hollyhead to Dublin via bus and ferry, we managed to make it into town with smiles on our faces and maps in our hands, ready for more adventures. It being St. Patrick's Day weekend in Dublin, there is no shortage of places to go and things to see.

As I write this, it is the eve of St. Patty's day, but we have already walked around the city many times over, been part of a city-wide treasure hunt, eaten another 'full something' breakfast (this time, Irish), been to the largest park in all of Europe, watched music played in the streets on stages big and small, drank Guinness from the source, and even seen a great movie floating on the Liffey River...

WHEW. IT HAS BEEN THREE DAYS.

Not bad for a placeholder, cellphone picture, huh?

That being said, as great as Dublin is, there is so much more Ireland has to offer than just the city center itself. Unfortunately, our time here in this great country is limited (on this trip, anyway), so great sights like Belfast and the Giant's Causeway will just have to live on without us for a while. Considering the many millennia of magic and history under her belt, I think Ireland will get along just fine. Us on the other hand... We'll see. Back to what we could see...

Dublin, more so than any other city thus far, has welcomed us with open arms and did it with a goofy grin and wonderfully quirky sense of humor. From our boisterous bartender/bellhop, Barry at the Bram Stoker to the wonderful gentleman we met outside Phoenix Park who showed us the way to not only a toilet, but 'one of the best pubs in Dublin,' there is something to be said for a population that get the most out of life not just through finding joy, but by sharing it with others. It could be friends, family, the people attached to the two closest barstools, or even weary travelers, the people of Dublin thus far have been nothing but helpful, kind and, above all, appreciative for our presence. The least I could do is raise a glass of Guinness in their honor.

The next to least I could do, is do it over and over and over again. Which is exactly what we plan to do tomorrow. Thank you, Dublin.

Sláinte!

The Land of Rainbows and Unicorns

Once Upon A Time...

Two young lovers set out on a quest to chase the sun and seek adventure through the Highlands. Passing through grasslands and rolling hills, enduring rain storms followed by rainbows, Michael and Victoria come across a majestic stone castle atop a mass of rocks.

They make their way to the entrance to seek rest and food. A friendly guard greets them and demands a toll before entering the castle. Michael and Victoria wave their enchanted card of plastic at the guard and he welcomes them in through the great gate.

 

As the young couple strolls through the castle grounds, a strange force of nature closes in from the North. The people look on in the distance as the ominous clouds race towards them. Before anyone can seek cover, the skies open up and let out fierce winds and rain.

Michael and Victoria head for shelter but the storm passes in the blink of an eye and the sun shines bright and warm again. They continue to cross the grounds to visit the Great Hall but then another storm ambushes them, this time turning to sleet and snow and hail.

In order to walk the halls of the palace, guests must dress in the finest garments. Victoria exchanges her common garb for a regal blue gown fit for a queen!

Michael observes that a knight in shining armor is eyeing his Victoria, so he warns the knight, "The feet of this Lady have already been swept off. Make haste and get thee gone."

Entering the Throne Room, the couple is presented with a rare treat: the castle's prize unicorns. These magnificent creatures are held in the highest regard by all the great kings and their people. "I never in my life thought I would see a unicorn," exclaimed Victoria. "And now there are several before me!"

The shadows on the ground grow longer and the sun is now descending in the sky. Michael realizes they have lingered too long in the castle.

The two continue their journey onward and look back one last time at the castle in the sky.

Knowing they must make it to Loch Lomond before darkness falls, the lovers race through the hills and glens. However, the beauty of the Trossachs and the gentle flow of the creeks lure them to a halt. A man in black emerges from the trees, wielding the skull and antlers of a wild beast. Fearlessly, Victoria greets him with warm hello. "Good afternoon sir, we are passing through on our way to Loch Lomond," she says. The man in black nods and smiles, "ah yes, there is an inn near the loch where you must go." With that, he turns and disappears over the horizon.



Mesmerized by the land, Michael and Victoria linger along the path surrounded by waterfalls, rivers, and giants.

The sun is about to fall behind the mountains when the two weary travelers finally arrive at the legendary loch. They stand over the water and watch as the last rays kiss the land good night.

Remembering the words of the man in black, Michael and Victoria set out once more to find the inn. There, along the road, the glowing lights through the windows of the inn promise warmth and welcome.

Stepping inside, the couple is startled by the beasts and mythical creatures that surround the room. Luckily, they have all been frozen by some magical enchantment.

Even the rarest creature of them all was on display at the inn: the elusive Haggis.

After filling their stomachs with steak and ale pie with mash, emptying their mugs of beer, and warming their hearts with the memories of the day, Michael and Victoria treated themselves to a dessert so decadent and so rich, they thought it was a dream. That dream is sticky toffee pudding with ice cream.



And so this fairytale chapter ends as the two travelers in love return to reality. The reality of the cold, hard chairs of the Edinburgh Airport lobby. Yes, we slept at the airport to save money.

The End