A Land of Ancient Temples

"It is of such extraordinary construction that it is not possible to describe it with a pen, particularly since it is like no other building in the world."António da Madalena

Cambodia is a land of many wonders. From the richness of the ancient landscape to the unwavering friendliness of the locals, there is no end to the list of reasons to visit this great region of Southeast Asia. Though the Khmer people have had their fair share of hardships, not the least of which is the most recent attempted genocide of the people by the Khmer Rouge dictator Pol Pot, the people have seemed to manage to keep a welcoming spirit to us humble travelers. The options for delicious street food go on for as long as the Mekong river itself, it seems. There is an architecture fused from traditional Cambodian (among other Asian influences) and French colonial that never ceases to intrigue as you walk the sometimes-too-narrow streets. So, as much as our focus of this post could zigzag as much as a Khmer tuk tuk driver, I would like to focus on the main reason I ever wanted to travel here in the first place: Angkor Wat.

Possibly one of the most recognizable structures in the world (it's on their flag!), Angkor Wat is but one of many temples that are scattered like architectural breadcrumbs throughout the northwest Cambodia area of Siem Reap. Whether or not a supreme being exists is beside the point, because when you walk through the chambers and galleries of this magnificent testament to human ingenuity, you can feel the millennium of worship and reverence simply oozing from its cobblestone paths and relief walls.

Vicky stands atop one of the outer courtyard staircases.

Originally a Hindu temple, it has been (like much of Southeast Asia) a Buddhist place of worship since the 12th century. Somehow, Buddhist monks of all ages manage to traverse the tricky walkways and hordes of tourists to do their daily routines. Speaking of those hordes of tourists, we at Checkpoint Chanislawski can't recommend enough to wake up early and catch a tuk tuk from your hotel and get to Angkor Wat for sunrise. This will allow you to be able to see the glorious sight of the sun slowly creeping over the towers to reveal the weathered stone and bathe the grounds in a quiet, magnificent glow. You'll also have the added bonus of rushing into the temple early to have the entire 1.6 million square meter complex to yourself for a while.

Who put this tree here?

A few things to remember. For one, Angkor Wat is only one of over a dozen awe-inspiring temples in the area for you to see. Each one brings its own uniquely impressive qualities. From the hundreds of incredibly detailed stone faces of Bayon, to the seemingly impossibly steep staircases of Ta Keo, to the sprawling strangler fig trees that grow in and out of Ta Prahm, the Angkor complex is a city of unique temples and you will need at least two days to explore them properly. Don't let this task be daunting to you. Enjoy it. Take your time and don't let any size crowd pressure you. Much like the wind, these temples are meant to be enjoyed hand in hand with serenity.

The many faces of Bayon Temple.

You will see the local people both in and around the temple trying to sell you goods from guidebooks, bottles of water, fresh coconuts, and clothing. Remember that this is their livelihood. If not interested, a polite, 'Otey Akun' (no thank you) will be appreciated. However, this will not stop most of them. They will try haggling with you. Just keep walking and repeating yourself. You will see musicians on many of the walkways playing some beautiful and quite appropriate music to enhance the mood. If you are so inclined, linger. Drop them some USD (or a few thousand Riel) for their efforts. However, never give in to beggars. Most will be children, taken out of school and encouraged to beg for a living. The Cambodian authorities will not stop them from doing this, but they urge tourists not to give the beggars money as it is a reason for the youth of Cambodia to not attend school and gain an education.

We'll meet you in the doorways to one of a thousand anti-chambers.

 Regardless, there is no end to architectural delight and human achievement around Angkor Wat. Dozens of temple complexes and thousands of tiny details await you to expand your world. Whether you relish each tiny stone carving or stand at the entrance to each complex in awe at the sheer scale of these gorgeous behemoths, let your inner-Indiana Jones out and go explore the largest playground known to man. Cambodia awaits you.

Another sunset witnessed by the stones with hopefully countless more to come...

As We Prepare to Leave Thailand...

Three weeks have passed since we arrived in the lush, sprawling landscape that is Thailand. Each individual experience thus far has, like all our travel experiences, so enriched our lives that it would be nearly impossible to do them all justice in one blog post.

Vicky gazes over the Bangkok landscape.

From playing with urban monkeys in Lopburi to eating countless varieties of cheap, fragrant street food. From enjoying the comfort of a taxi ride to relishing the experience of a modern mass transit system like the Metropolitan Rapid Transit (MRT) or Bangkok Rapid Transit (BTS). From the beaches of Koh Semet to the temples of Ayutthaya, Thailand has so much to offer anyone with at least one working sense. That being said, as we prepare to depart this unique locale, let's talk about our chosen base of operations: Bangkok.

First things first. Thailand is hot. Thailand is extremely hot. Be prepared for heat when traveling here.

Not sure liquification is covered by our Traveler's Insurance.

Plenty of sunscreen and bug repellent. The city is covered in concrete and that seems to make the heat even more intense. As you traverse this urban jungle and make your way through the thick forest of telephone poles and concrete stanchions, be sure to enjoy the hospitality of the locals. The Thai are truly a friendly people. A couple of choice learned phrases like, 'Hello,' (sa-wat-dee) 'How much?' (tao lai) 'Excuse me,' (tona kop) 'Thank you,' (kop kun) go a long way to ingratiating yourself to the local population (of all nationalities). Forgive anyone trying to push merchandise on you because for every one of them, there are two people who are going to cook, prepare and plate a meal for you for a little over $1USD, and do it with an honest smile.

Children playing near Wat Pho.

 Bangkok is not the easiest place to get around, especially if you choose to go without a cell phone data plan (as we do when we travel). However, you have a veritable buffet of transit options when it comes to getting around Bangkok and the surrounding areas. First, for those of you sans data, I would recommend an offline, GPS-based mobile app like MAPS.ME for your location needs. Other than that, old school is always the best school. Physical, detailed maps and planning routes ahead of time. This is not the death of spontaneity, just being sure of your steps until getting acclimated with a given area. Not a day goes by where Vicky whips out a map and looks at me with crazy eyes and says, 'IT'S LIKE WE'RE ON THE AMAZING RACE.' Whether it be by rail, taxi, tuktuk, bus or walking, Bangkok has a sight to see on every corner (usually next to a 7-11). The rail system is not terribly widespread, but very efficient and cheap. Taxi service varies depending on location and time of day. Don't feel bad about sending one away if they deny your request to use the meter. They will try to quote a price that usually is in their best interest in that event. Haggle with them if you don't want to go to the trouble of finding a metered taxi. A good cabbie always deserves a tip, but since it isn't 100% customary to tip, just round up to the easiest 20฿ (Thai Baht).

Watch out for the wobbly sidewalks.

Walking the streets and sidewalks of Bangkok require strong ankles and good peripherals. Don't have your head buried in your phone unless you want to be stunned by a motorcyclist whizzing by, mere inches away. Yes. A motorcyclist. Traffic here is... dense. To alleviate some of the congestion (or just get around it), people will ride on the sidewalks, weaving in and out of pedestrian traffic and harrowingly navigating the makeshift array of cables, poles, and hawking stands. Because of this use, the sidewalks are uneven at best, broken obstacle courses at worst. Be. Aware.

While on the subject of navigating the streets, let's talk about why we're all really here. FOOD. Bangkok has us up to our ears in delicious street foods. Some familiar, some not so much. Rice, noodles, wantons, fried dough, meats on sticks, whole fishes, pork soups, sticky rice, curries...

I seem to have forgotten my point.

Normally, we try to go light on our eating throughout the day and eat out once in a great while. This is to save money and to keep us light on our feet to traverse each city with energy and agility. However, here it is actually more expensive to buy groceries and cook yourself than it is to buy a meal for two at least twice a day. It's horrifying and amazing at the same time. The abundance of choices and aromas is intoxicating and stupefying. Just snack throughout the day and sit down to a takeaway meal in the evening.

7-11 is a resource that should be taken advantage of. When you get money from an ATM, you get it in 1,000฿ increments. Many vendors and taxis simply don't carry enough cash to change that out, so every now and then, go get a 14฿ (about 40¢) Thai milk tea and use those large bills to get ALL THE SMALL CHANGE. 7-11 has cash for days.

7-11. Resource.

Like any major metropolitan area, the traffic is horrid, the air is almost unbreathable, and to find any semblance of serenity, you need to travel at least an hour away from the city's borders. However, there is an experience in every step, an event near every bus stop, and just enough reminders of home to make Bangkok an ideal place to dip your toes in the Southeast Asian waters comfortably. It is an enormous pond teeming with life. From the vibrant colors and angular lines of the architecture above to the stratified layers of food, grime, and drinks spilled from clinked glasses of the streets below, Bangkok is a city unlike any other. Nearly familiar on its surface, yet unique in its heart. We'll see you on the streets, so sawatdee for now.

Until next time...

Crossing the Date Line...

Well, Checkpointers, we're here! Sawadikap, from Thailand! We made it across the Pacific to Japan and onto Bangkok. After an 11 hour flight to Tokyo, meeting up with our friend Ashley from Chicago, and a 6 hour flight to Bangkok, we were understandably wiped and confused.

"...AH-WHAT. NOTHING... Sorry?"

Sufficed to say, we were ready to jump in a taxi and let them do all the work.

However, that was not to be. This is not Europe and English is not the near-guarantee we got used to there. In Europe, we were able to get away with attempting the local languages and our politeness would be recognized and often appreciated. Here, you had better be ready with your dictionaries (we weren't) because not many of the locals speak English. Attempting to flag down a cab that would take us to our address (printed in English, of course) was not easy. Even with our friend's phone navigating us, it was still an adventure.

Once we found our accommodations for the night, our brains had been so forcibly woken up to deal with the transportation issue that I had a little trouble getting to sleep.

The body was willing, however the mind...

Eventually, sleep was achieved and rest was found. Let's discuss our first couple of days in Thailand in one of the only efficient means I know how; photographs.

Bangkok.

What.

We got to Bangkok under cover of night. The streets we walked were quiet and devoid of commerce. First impressions of the city were hard to come by as it would take a while to mine through the stratified layers of character and grime alike. Upon sunrise, the vendors begin to peel back their shutters and the nostalgic aromas of cooking oil and charred meat overpower the smells of a hot, humid urban center. It's at this moment that Bangkok achieves the apex of it's charm.

Taken in that rare, fleeting moment in Khao San when traffic is light.

The city's countless motorbikes weave expertly in and out of traffic or simply skip traffic altogether and hop onto the sidewalk and hope pedestrians are paying attention. Cables carrying electricity, phone lines, or just drying laundry wrap around every surface like a strangler fig. The motto of this burgeoning town seems to be, 'Just keep building.' Every surface is built upon. If a structure is still standing, build on it or add to it. Pop up vendors who have found themselves a spot to call their own improvise with whatever building materials are at their disposal. Need a place to eat our delicious noodles? There is some sheet metal attached to a fence, a telephone pole and the side of a 7-11. Guess what?

...

It's perfect.

Just eating food I'll never tire of at a price I'll never believe we got away with.

"Sà-wàt-dee kráp?" "Tâo rài?" "Kòp kun!" As is the case anywhere, use as much of the local language as possible. The locals appreciate it and it's hell of fun. Having spent only a few days here thus far, I'm sure my appreciation and admiration of Bangkok will only continue to grow. The first impressions were meant as a way to safely jump into the coursing river that is Bangkok. Once acclimated, we'll open ourselves to the historic temples and landmarks that are nestled in this ancient and ever-adapting city. Until then, I can only say we've waded out and the water seems inviting...

Wires, girders, and signage. Oh, my.

Still More Glorious Adventures Await...

Hey, Checkpointers! First off...

Seriously, though, with my knees, we won't be jumping this much.

 

Welcome back to Checkpoint Chanislawski! It's been almost two years, but we're finally paddling out for yet another adventure. The original plan was to explore Europe for 100 days, come back to L.A. and work enough to rebuild our travel fund and head out for 100 days in Southeast Asia in early 2016. The Chanislawskis are happy to report that the latter part of that prediction remains 100% factually accurate! However, and this brings me to our 'secondly,' while in Paris in 2014, we received word that our European excursion was to be cut short due to work-related reasons. Instead of coming back stateside in June of that year, we had to come back over a month earlier. That, in turn, made us decide between continuing the trip as we had been (at least a week in each city) and only see another country or two, or moving through Europe at breakneck speed, catching six more countries, but only spending a few days in each place.

DECISIONS.

 

 

 

Considering that we do not wake up each morn on luxurious bedding made of the monies of our enemies, we were unsure as to when we'd be able to see Europe again. Thus, we chose the sprinting option of taking in each place for mere days at a time in order to make footprints in as many locales as possible. In turn, we had less downtime to dedicate to things like updating the blog (or recovering from pains, sickness, exhaustion, whatever). So, as much as we're sure you've all been salivating these past two years to know how the rest of Europe was (post-Netherlands), you'll have to be satisfied with the same thing I've been telling myself everyday, 'I'll try to get to those blog entries on the cities we missed when my memory is not only pictures.'

...I'm sorry, but it was fantastic and want to do it justice.

In any case, we're here to announce our travels to Southeast Asia! In exactly one week, we'll be getting on a plane across the Pacific, stopping over in Japan for a minute, then landing in Bangkok, Thailand for the first leg of our journey.

After returning from Europe, we spent about a year saving enough money for this trip and bought our tickets to Thailand in November, thus cementing this endeavor in reality. A post soon will itemize as much as possible to help any of you wondering how this trip can be a reality for anyone. For now, this is just our announcement, slipped into the ether, that we are heading out! Thailand, Cambodia, Vietnam, Laos, Myanmar, Malaysia, Singapore, Indonesia, Philippines, and Japan here we come...

Bye Bye, European Wifi...

Sitting in my hostel bed before we begin our last morning in mainland Europe. We are currently in Munich, Germany and though the blog may be a couple weeks late updating you all on our adventures, I thought it apropos to have you with us for the actual 'wave goodbye' to this miraculous land. We completed this leg of the adventure by seeing yet another castle in Oberammergau. What a fitting way to suspend the magic for now. We will, of course, continue to tell the stories of our journey, but for now, it is time to shuffle off. Thank you, Europe. Thank you, readers. It is off to London to decompress a bit and then head back to L.A.

Statues WISH they had butts like ours'.

Dam Good City...

A few days (weeks) late, but I think it’s about time Checkpoint Chanislawski updated you all on their travels through the capital of the Netherlands. After the wonderfully quiet respite that was Bruges, we decided to dive head first into the canals of Amsterdam. Directly upon entering the city, you feel the difference in vibe the place has to offer. It is packed with locals and transplants alike. This obviously is a double edged sword sometimes, but Amsterdam has found a way to make it work. We were, for the most part, treated very kindly and on more than a few occasions, people would go out of their way to make sure our time in their city was a memorable one.

We wanted to get the touristy stuff out of the way early, so first on our list was to (surprise, surprise) taste a world-renowned beer from its source. Off to the Heineken Experience we went. As are all tourist traps, it was overpriced, but did include plenty of tastes of the beer and fun, interactive things to do (a trait Amsterdam is quite fond of) regarding the brand . A brewery tour is a brewery tour, but it was still enjoyable and we now have two commemorative beer glasses to boot.

Vicky Chan, Heineken model.

Later in the first night, Vicky had a strange (albeit completely shared) desire to see the Red Light District. Now, fair warning. Like all major cities, Amsterdam is going to feel like one giant tourist trap. This was the overriding feeling as we strolled through the city center and canals and Red Light District during the day. A lot of cheap (but not nearly cheap enough), terrible food, a lot of tourists (mainly young white dudes – totally, bro), attempting to scour the city for the perfect ‘coffee shop,’ and a lot of waiters desperately trying to pull you into their restaurant, no matter how many times you say, “No” or “Ask me again and I will beat the crap out of you before you can say, ‘truffles.’” Sufficed to say, our hopes were not high (unlike some of the city’s patrons) that we would enjoy it much more at night.

Yes. The buildings bow like that. It is amazing and terrifying, much like many experiences in Amsterdam.

We were proven wrong. Amsterdam comes alive at night in a way that I have not experienced in most cities. There is a musical quality to the chatter that goes on. What was a lazy staccato of people meandering during the day becomes a vibrant, shimmering aria of humans moving in unison. The canals and narrow alleyways become veins and arteries of a city, pumping with life. Every street corner oozes with personality and one can only imagine the stories that have been created there and relished in for a lifetime afterward. I’m not going to go into detail on the stories we created, but you can imagine how far the vivid colors of the city coupled with a friendly and helpful store clerk can go for someone asking, “What do you know about Truffles?”

"DON'T POINT AT THE GROUND. PEOPLE WILL THINK YOU'RE CRAZY."

Amsterdam has a plethora of parks around and in the city from which you can choose to rest your weary head after a night of stories. This is something we Chanislawskis appreciate most about any city. We need a decent place for naptime. After a filling and delicious meal of authentic Dutch cuisine at The Pantry and more than a day of ducking and weaving through the bicycle traffic (seriously, this place is run by cyclists), we needed a place to rest.  Europe loves to lounge in its parks. Amsterdam is no different and it is glorious. After being serenaded to sleep by the sounds of a non-English-speaking busker muddling through half of Nirvana’s catalogue and some teenaged girls trying to play ‘chase the pigeon,’ we awoke refreshed and ready to move on to bigger and better things.

Pannenkoken and a combination of hutspot, zurkool, and stamppotten.
Top this off with a ludicrously high alcohol content Trappist beer. Seriously.

Having had enough of street performer versions of my favorite music, we headed off to the Bibliotheek Amsterdam (their National Library) to check it out. The beautifully blended modern building fits well within the riverfront landscape. The interior is something that would make Stanley Kubrick’s world of 2001: A Space Odyssey proud. Clean and efficient, yet with a definite touch of style, all the while, being laid out in a user-friendly way. Personally, I got lost in the music section where you can stream every song they have in the library as well as browse similar works. It’s like spending a day on AllMusic.com and then being able to take a copy of your new discoveries home with you after. This place, like much of Amsterdam, also deals with the concept of young education extremely well. This place is not a fortress of forced learning, but an inviting, safe place for kids to explore what interests them.

"This place has a stream-able version of DJ Shadow's 'Entroducing?' I approve of this library."

Down the riverfront from the library is the NEMO Science andTechnology Museum where the concepts of children learning and children playing become so blurred, that you can hardly tell one from the other. Just floor after mind-expanding floor of interactive education. If you ever visit (and you should) be sure to check out the section on sex. Up front, honest, and respective of adolescents’ minds. No censorship, but at the same time, fun and engaging without being too gratuitous. Just an incredibly progressive approach to a museum and a damn fun place to hang out for a morning.

"Wait. Sex isn't supposed to be terrifying and embarrassing?"

This Chanislawski would be replete not to mention an excellent bar we visited our last night in Amsterdam. After visiting the ‘coffee shops,’ (best line from a local on those, “Yeah, I guess you can get coffee there, too.”) we decided on a much more ‘us’ evening outside, on beanbags, under a windmill. While in Amsterdam, check out Langendijk Cafe. Great local brews and an intoxicating vibe. Why wouldn’t you want to drink under the largest wooden windmill in Europe?

It was a jam-packed few days in Amsterdam. Between using the public transit and public parks to their fullest extent, getting ‘coffee’ and ‘truffles,’ and touring the canals and Red Light Districts, Amsterdam is a beauty and beast with no comparison. Quaint and demur by day, brash and sultry by night. The city and it’s locals are open, inviting people who only want you to do what we did on our short time there: enjoy yourself and remember the way back home as best as possible. If you can only do one of those, however, there are plenty of parks in which to sleep off any excursion.

A lasting image of Amsterdam. The commercials are right. A Dam Good City.

In Bruges...

I saw the film, 'In Bruges' when it came out once. I remember loving the humor and the drama of it. I don't remember the setting fairly well. I don't remember coming out of the theater saying, "I cannot wait to see this city."

I probably sympathized with Brendan Gleason during this.

Now, whether or not that had more to do with the portrayal of Bruges in the film or my age and relative lack of enthusiasm for travel back then, who knows? What I do know is that as we prepared to depart Paris for the beautiful country of Belgium, we originally had planned to visit either Brussels or Antwerp. However, a chance encounter while stranded overnight in a Welsh bus station (thanks, Megabus) with an Australian woman continued to tickle our brains. The new short-term friend told us that, based on our short term travel time, we should skip Brussels and just hit up the smaller, lesser-known gem that is Bruges.

Seriously. Bruges. Gem.

We've been to a lot of cities, a lot of countries on this whirlwind adventure thus far, and without a doubt, Bruges was exactly what my tired body and muddled mind needed. After over a month of sleeping in hostel cots and living room floors, day after day of walking seemingly endless distances in order to traverse major metropolitan areas and the unforeseen problems of living outside of an everyday routine for an extended period of time, I was ready for a respite. Often I would get angry at our damned power converter for not doing it's job adequately. Vicky would try to calm me down, saying it was an inanimate object.

Had to throw this 'In Bruges' reference in here somehow, didn't I?

However... Bruges, with it's small scale and inviting, walkable layout was exactly that. If I wasn't casually strolling along cobblestone paths, I was napping in one of the many public parks within shouting distance of the city center. When we weren't enjoying a local Belgian brew in a cozy cafe, we were posing for pictures along one of the endless photogenic canals. It truly was the definition of 'relaxing.' If not in the mood for an entirely relaxing trip, we definitely recommend renting a bicycle for the day and cruise around the city. Bruges is the perfect size for such an adventure and can be circumvented in under two hours.

You can't swing a dead cat without hitting a picturesque spot near a canal here.

One of the many tricks to fully enjoying a foreign country on a short trip is to ingratiate yourself to the locals. In Bruges, 99.9% of the people speak English and are more than happy to accommodate you in that way. However, try to learn how to say simple things like, 'Hello' or 'Thank You' ('Hallo' and 'Dank u wel' respectively - Bruges, as you can tell, was not difficult). That being said, just being polite and engaging is usually a great start in itself. Listen to locals when they give you tips as to where to go. It's always more satisfying when you find a great picnic spot or pub given to you by a local rather than Yelp or Google. In addition, remember to keep your eyes open for local ads. This has, on many occasions given us great things to do and try.

Gazing at Michelangelo's Madonna.

Vicky with harpist, Luc Vanlaere.

After visiting the Church of Our Lady to see Michelangelo's Madonna, we spotted an ad for a free harp concert nearby. Seeing how we had an hour to kill before dinner (did I mention it was free?), we decided to check it out.

After sitting in a dimly, although meticulously, lit room, we noticed a small stage littered with a half dozen worldly instruments. A concert harp, a Celtic harp, harps from China, Japan and even an Indian harp that has 50-something strings that play the same note. Not to mention a gong, singing bowls and even a new type of steel drum called a Hang that wasn't invented until 2001. Just an amazing conglomeration of uncommon instruments. 45 minutes later, Vicky and I were recovering from the emotional ride of Luc Vanlaere's stunning musical talents. All instruments were played by just him, at times more than one at a time! As if Bruges hadn't been soothing enough to my travel-weary mind, it decided to swoop in with the coup-de-grace and give me nearly an hour of what Vicky called a 'brain massage.'

Do yourself a favor. If you're ever near Belgium and you want a few days to relax and unwind, take advantage of what Bruges has to offer. Beer, chocolate, architecture, culture and some of the most serene parkland we've encountered in our travels thus far. You will not regret it. As my Rolodex of 'Cities I've Been To' continues to grow, I can honestly say that Bruges will probably always be near the front (and not because it's in alphabetical order).

Passed out in Bruges.